[DIY] Removing tough paint from metals?

Discussion in 'DIY' started by Robbo_72, Aug 4, 2013.

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  1. Hey All,

    I need to paint strip some parts (copper and aluminium) that have had a robust paint job done on them, Primer base, 3 coats and a clear coat. They have also been exposed to heat so this may have super hardened the paint.
    The paint is standard automobile enamel aerosol.

    Last time I did this I could get Nitro-mors with DCM in it, But the EU have banned shed bound DIY guys from getting our hands on the stuff, All commercial paint strippers now are "new formula DCM free", And I'm told it works for shit.

    I was ready to go and take a plunge (possibly waste money) and buy some of the new Nitro-Mors but does anyone have any other ideas for a liquid that can do the job?

    Thanks in advance.
  2. Nitromors. I use it to strip gun stocks. Get's rid of thick layers of rock hard varnish so probably work on paint.
  3. Blowtorch?
  4. Call one of those mobile sandblasting firms.
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Well the ACC had some good stuff they inflicted on us for years...Screech...comes in two possibilities orange and the lethal lime.

  6. ]Now don't blame me if your house explodes and/or you poison yourself to death.
  7. Nitromors is a joke nowadays. Waste of time. The copper you could have dipped in caustic soda. Many places strip furniture with it. I think it would damage the aluminium though.

    Do these parts have a fine surface finish that needs to be preserved? Bead blasting is a possibility.
    • Like Like x 1
  8. If it's acrylic paint acetone or ethyl acetate should shift it. Both are available from some chemists otherwise use nail-varnisg remover and accept it'll not be cheap.

    DO NOT use anything alkaline near aluminium, unless you want to lose the piece and possibly your hair. Copper is less dodgy but anything with an amine in it would not be sensible.
    • Like Like x 1
  9. Your suspicions are correct the new Nitromors is next to useless, the good news is you can buy DCM on ebay though you'll have to keep it under water to stop it evaporating as fast as you use it.

    Personally I'd try softening the paint with cellulose thinners and scrape it off before going to the hassle of DCM.
  10. On soft metals like copper and aluminium?
  11. Bead-blasting then. I was assuming that if he contacted them they'd give proper advice and I couldn't be arsed to write an essay on it.
  12. Ravers

    Ravers LE Reviewer Book Reviewer

    The soda method does actually work. The first thing to do with an old gun is strip it down and chuck all the action/lock parts in a boiling pot with soda. This gets rid of all the old grease, oil and varnish which coats the action.

    Posted from the ARRSE Mobile app (iOS or Android)
    • Like Like x 2
  13. I use a product called peel away 7. It is ph neutral so the aluminium will be safe.
    Its readily available on the net.

    I use this on motorcycle parts including panted engines and exhausts and it works for me.
    • Like Like x 1
  14. Look at soda blasting - instead of sand blasting, it is asofter method.

    Also look at the Eastwood companys website, the people who do all the bibs n' bobs for classic car restoration, they sometimes have usefl chemicals.
  15. Cheers all.
    I found some Nitro-mors at the back of the "chem" shelf, So saved me from splashing out on another tin.
    Took two dirty sessions and one clean one to get the paint off. Destroyed a wire brush too.

    Horrible stuff that like.

    Should I soak the copper in distilled vinegar to clean the surfaces, Its manky as hell.