diverter valve

Discussion in 'DIY' started by Grumblegrunt, Oct 1, 2012.

Welcome to the Army Rumour Service, ARRSE

The UK's largest and busiest UNofficial military website.

The heart of the site is the forum area, including:

  1. Grumblegrunt

    Grumblegrunt LE Book Reviewer

    quicky for the plumbers - heating system 11 years old, heating off - water on and rads getting slightly warm instead of staying cold, changed the stat so its not that - do I need to change/service the diverter valve in the tank cupboard?
     
  2. If it's the diverter valve, either a single port, or a 3- way, you can get the heating on a temporary basis by feeling around the silver head, on a valve, usually above the pump in the airing cupboard.

    You should find a small lever on the box which will move with a little resistance and can be located in a small nick to keep the valve open until you can get it fixed....... adjust the boiler thermostat down until it's comfortable, but not too hot in the room.

    Some valves are an easy swap, some are no longer available.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Have you tried shutting it manually?
     
  4. Wrong defect. His valve appears to not be shutting fully rather than not opening. This is indicative of a failed power element, and if this is the case, can be rectified without removing the valve itself.
     
  5. They normally fail in closed position and need to be opened manually, not dangerous.... the boiler stat prevents overheating.

    If the valve is passing a small amount of hot water, though, it would indicate that a complete valve swap would be better.
     
  6. Depends on the nature of the defect. If the solenoid itself is trout, then it would fail in the de-energised position (i.e. shut) but if the spring mechanism which returns the valve to the shut position when the solenoid is de-energised is goosed, then the valve will open when the solenoid is energised, but will not fully shut when the solenoid is de-energised. Diagnosis of this is fairly simple, and rectification requires changing only the power element.
     
  7. Grumblegrunt

    Grumblegrunt LE Book Reviewer

    cheers all - so can it be de-gunged or has it had it?

    heating has been off cept for water all summer so only just noticed it in the past week.
     
  8. Can you control it manually on the lever?
     
  9. If not, does it have any identification on it? There should be a label on it.

    Eleven years old isn't that old, though I'd agree if it is a crap boiler.
     
  10. Grumblegrunt

    Grumblegrunt LE Book Reviewer

    its a drayton MA1 - just popped the top off, the valve is stuck and the actuator isn't responsing to the call from the thermostat so I guess its change the whole unit.

    any tips other than close off all taps, should I drain the tank just to be safe?
     
  11. Grumblegrunt

    Grumblegrunt LE Book Reviewer

    the boiler is an ideal icos so no not a great one but it hasn't given me trouble nor the neighbours either side. pumps have failed and been replaced on all three and I had to sort the drain out for next door which had got gunged with food grease and was backing up into the boiler.

    we had an odd leak in the tank cupboard which was either the diverter or the blow valve above it but nothing since.
     
  12. They are pretty efficient, so assuming it has been serviced should be ok.

    The fact that you say you can't operate the valve once the power element is off is a concern. How hard did you try?
    If it is stuck, you might have quite a build-up of residue there. It would be worthwhile considering a chemical flush of the whole system.
    1. When you vent the system, is the water discoloured?
    2. Do you have an inhibiter in the water, and if so, how long has it been there for?
     
  13. Grumblegrunt

    Grumblegrunt LE Book Reviewer

    I haven't changed it since we moved in, last bleed water was clean and minimal sludge when I took a rad out last year.

    hard enough to sheer the shaft but I was gently agitating it then it came away - but it was furred up so guessing the seal had given up.

    I've got some of that fernox powdered acid stuff in the shed - will that do for a flush?
     
  14. Yes, but it sounds as though it doesn't need it. Looks like you're going for the complete valve change btw.