diverter valve

Grumblegrunt

LE
Book Reviewer
#1
quicky for the plumbers - heating system 11 years old, heating off - water on and rads getting slightly warm instead of staying cold, changed the stat so its not that - do I need to change/service the diverter valve in the tank cupboard?
 
#2
If it's the diverter valve, either a single port, or a 3- way, you can get the heating on a temporary basis by feeling around the silver head, on a valve, usually above the pump in the airing cupboard.

You should find a small lever on the box which will move with a little resistance and can be located in a small nick to keep the valve open until you can get it fixed....... adjust the boiler thermostat down until it's comfortable, but not too hot in the room.

Some valves are an easy swap, some are no longer available.
 
#4
If it's the diverter valve, either a single port, or a 3- way, you can get the heating on a temporary basis by feeling around the silver head, on a valve, usually above the pump in the airing cupboard.

You should find a small lever on the box which will move with a little resistance and can be located in a small nick to keep the valve open until you can get it fixed....... adjust the boiler thermostat down until it's comfortable, but not too hot in the room.

Some valves are an easy swap, some are no longer available.
Wrong defect. His valve appears to not be shutting fully rather than not opening. This is indicative of a failed power element, and if this is the case, can be rectified without removing the valve itself.
 
#5
They normally fail in closed position and need to be opened manually, not dangerous.... the boiler stat prevents overheating.

If the valve is passing a small amount of hot water, though, it would indicate that a complete valve swap would be better.
 
#6
Depends on the nature of the defect. If the solenoid itself is trout, then it would fail in the de-energised position (i.e. shut) but if the spring mechanism which returns the valve to the shut position when the solenoid is de-energised is goosed, then the valve will open when the solenoid is energised, but will not fully shut when the solenoid is de-energised. Diagnosis of this is fairly simple, and rectification requires changing only the power element.
 

Grumblegrunt

LE
Book Reviewer
#7
cheers all - so can it be de-gunged or has it had it?

heating has been off cept for water all summer so only just noticed it in the past week.
 
#10
If not, does it have any identification on it? There should be a label on it.

Personally, after this length of time, I'd rather replace the whole unit, or if it's a crap boiler, you might be better off putting in a new combi...... cheaper in the long run.
Eleven years old isn't that old, though I'd agree if it is a crap boiler.
 

Grumblegrunt

LE
Book Reviewer
#11
its a drayton MA1 - just popped the top off, the valve is stuck and the actuator isn't responsing to the call from the thermostat so I guess its change the whole unit.

any tips other than close off all taps, should I drain the tank just to be safe?
 

Grumblegrunt

LE
Book Reviewer
#12
If not, does it have any identification on it? There should be a label on it.


Eleven years old isn't that old, though I'd agree if it is a crap boiler.
the boiler is an ideal icos so no not a great one but it hasn't given me trouble nor the neighbours either side. pumps have failed and been replaced on all three and I had to sort the drain out for next door which had got gunged with food grease and was backing up into the boiler.

we had an odd leak in the tank cupboard which was either the diverter or the blow valve above it but nothing since.
 
#13
the boiler is an ideal icos so no not a great one but it hasn't given me trouble nor the neighbours either side....
They are pretty efficient, so assuming it has been serviced should be ok.

The fact that you say you can't operate the valve once the power element is off is a concern. How hard did you try?
If it is stuck, you might have quite a build-up of residue there. It would be worthwhile considering a chemical flush of the whole system.
1. When you vent the system, is the water discoloured?
2. Do you have an inhibiter in the water, and if so, how long has it been there for?
 

Grumblegrunt

LE
Book Reviewer
#14
I haven't changed it since we moved in, last bleed water was clean and minimal sludge when I took a rad out last year.

hard enough to sheer the shaft but I was gently agitating it then it came away - but it was furred up so guessing the seal had given up.

I've got some of that fernox powdered acid stuff in the shed - will that do for a flush?
 

Grumblegrunt

LE
Book Reviewer
#16
yep, looking for one now, I can shut the main loop off but not the one in the middle of the tank which was why I asked if I should drain it? I know the feed cock should stop anything from coming out and there's no welding to be done but it doesn't hurt for a second opinion :)

if you ever need kitchen fitting tips let me know :)
 
#17
If you can't valve off all three pipes, you'll have to drain down.assuming whoever put it in fitted a drain point.

If you look in the box of electrics and it looks like a nightmare of cables, I will cut the cable of the old valve and fit a new box beside it and wire up colour to colour through 5 chocolate block connectors.

When filling up again, look for a vent on the top pipe of the DHW circuit, check it works then open up the silver lever on the box of the divertor valve to get rid of air, closing it again before firing up the system.

I'd still prefer to swap for a decent combi though......no Ideal boiler has ever won "Best of Breed " at Crufts, even though they are dogs.
 
#18
quicky for the plumbers - heating system 11 years old, heating off - water on and rads getting slightly warm instead of staying cold, changed the stat so its not that - do I need to change/service the diverter valve in the tank cupboard?
I have the same problem with mine, only the radiators get fully hot when the hot water comes on.I have the Honeywell V4073A and had to do some fault finding, using an internal schematic and chasing the wiring from the timer, pump, boiler, room stat, cylinder stat and power supply. I am in no doubt that it's the diverter valve's diode, that sits between SW2 & the 13K resistor, that's fucked in mine, I just haven't got around to replacing it.
 
#19
I've got some of that fernox powdered acid stuff in the shed - will that do for a flush?
If you mean DS-3, then no. It's for removing limescale and you'd only have limescale deposits in a central heating system if there's a big leak or some similar balls-up.

Then again, you shouldn't have any sludge in a properly installed and maintained CH system.

In the UK people expect their CH to sludge up in normal use because they expect and accept CH installers who are utter dullards.
 

Grumblegrunt

LE
Book Reviewer
#20
I'd still prefer to swap for a decent combi though......no Ideal boiler has ever won "Best of Breed " at Crufts, even though they are dogs.
I'll wait until the whole system is knackered before I switch to a combi and end up taking the tank out. as the house is 11 years old it might be a while yet.
 
Thread starter Similar threads Forum Replies Date
gorilla Weapons, Equipment & Rations 1
trickywoo Health and Fitness 3
TheLordFlasheart Aviation 22

Similar threads

Latest Threads

Top