Builds Desert group build 1/32 scale Airfix Crusader tank and multipose Infantry figures.

Bubbles_Barker

LE
Book Reviewer
I'd go with Portland Stone, this is the Bovvy Mk III:

Screenshot (335).png
 

Bubbles_Barker

LE
Book Reviewer
excellent, I'll follow the Bovy example, but I draw the line at copying the Rota trailer and making a scratch built model of it. What a mad idea, a what the f were they thinking moment.
How about the AFV Club version for your Rota trailer? Two here at auction:

 
excellent, I wonder if the Bovington example is the only one that has survived, according to Mr Forte, the only group who took to it was a bunch of US farmers paid by the Allies to get the crops into French soil after the fighting.
 

ches

LE
Aye, rust in the desert. Doesn't happen on in-service vehicles. Try telling the plebs on the modelling pages that one & see them shit a clump.

For reference, i've seen soft skin kit get a rust sheen overnight on bare metal as the condensation on the metal rusted in the cold dark hours. Within an hour of the sun coming up the rust has gone with the heat & the lack of moisture - the high surface temps of metal surfaces causing any moisture to immediately vapourise. By far the biggest inhibitor to rust in hot sandy climes though is the wind with the sand. New wagons would have dulled paintwork within a week & any scratched or dings would see the edges of the paint being slowly worn away with each desert wind.
 
quick try of the chipping fluid, the instructions say to spray the whole model with it, and later we'll see why, but for my test I just applied it to the extreme edges of this hull.
chipping fluid b.jpg

around the door frame
chipping fluid d.jpg

the model sprayed with desert yellow over the green paint and the chipping fluid.
chipping fluid e.jpg

the paint dry, the chipping was done with a airbrush cleaning brush, I'm aware of the edge showing of the narrow layer of the fluid, Must say I'm underwhelmed, I'm better off applying the salt technique to areas with more care.
chips.jpg
 

Smeggers

ADC
Moderator
Kit Reviewer
Book Reviewer
quick try of the chipping fluid, the instructions say to spray the whole model with it, and later we'll see why, but for my test I just applied it to the extreme edges of this hull.
View attachment 554272
around the door frame
View attachment 554273
the model sprayed with desert yellow over the green paint and the chipping fluid.
View attachment 554274
the paint dry, the chipping was done with a airbrush cleaning brush, I'm aware of the edge showing of the narrow layer of the fluid, Must say I'm underwhelmed, I'm better off applying the salt technique to areas with more care.
View attachment 554276
I've tried various makes of chipping fluid with poor results each time. I'd stick to the technique that serves you best. Vallejo do a substance called "crackle medium". I've tried it and it gave a good cracked and chipped look. The trick is to apply a small amount on a painted surface; let it dry and then paint over it. Only apply in small doses!
s-l300.jpg
vallejo_w.jpg

Hope this helps.
 
I've tried various makes of chipping fluid with poor results each time. I'd stick to the technique that serves you best. Vallejo do a substance called "crackle medium". I've tried it and it gave a good cracked and chipped look. The trick is to apply a small amount on a painted surface; let it dry and then paint over it. Only apply in small doses!
View attachment 554337 View attachment 554338
Hope this helps.
Looks like my feet after a CFT.
 
second figure components laid out ready for cleaning up.
bren gunner components laid out.jpg

the way I do oil and fuel staining is integral to washes, using a fine wet brushand a wider fuller dry brush, using highly thinned matt black.
Applied with the wet, and brushed in the direction of the staining with the dry brush
wash brush away f.jpg
 
this has to be done quickly before it has a chance to dry too dark, the oil stain and fuel spills need to be subtle to look realistic, and they must flow downhill obviously.
wash brush away oil stain.jpg

washes look great when applied to hinges and hatch gaps. Where rain washes out and dirt collects. always have the dry brush ready to thin it down if you over do it.
wash brush away c.jpg
 
that's the Crusader done, now for some work on the Infantry figures.
finished.jpg

the first figure basic assembly without his kit, 15minutes of mold line scraping. That muzzle will be drilled out.
bren gunner made up basic b.jpg
 
all four figures in base colours, painting their faces is the biggest challenge for me, lets see how human I can make them look.
four in base colours.jpg
 

Bubbles_Barker

LE
Book Reviewer
Excellent stuff - I always thought with those figures (last made by me in about 1974) that it was weird they had scrim nets on their helmets.
 

NSP

LE
all four figures in base colours, painting their faces is the biggest challenge for me, lets see how human I can make them look.
View attachment 555149
Would it not be fun to make the uniforms lighter to seemingly be washed out and faded and bleached by the sun, and being dusty and sand-damaged, but with the youngest-looking one in "proper" colour as he's just been posted in to the unit as a replacement, fresh off the boat back in Cairo, like...??
 
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their kit is going to be weathered and made lighter, base flesh colours added.
figs early flesh colours.jpg

the tank commander figure needs modification to fit so that just the top of his shoulders and head appear from the hatch. His arm join needs filler and his face is in base flesh tone so far.
tank commander.jpg
 

Smeggers

ADC
Moderator
Kit Reviewer
Book Reviewer
Excellent stuff - I always thought with those figures (last made by me in about 1974) that it was weird they had scrim nets on their helmets.
Good point, well made! One could imagine that they are a unit freshly posted to the area.
 
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