There was an article in The Sunday Times recently about HK tailors and I believe this company (Raja Fasdhions) got a great write up. If there is an archive section to the ST's website you may be able to read it yourself. I think the message was use good materials and know exactly what you want.
I tried out AJ Collections Ltd, a tailor in New Bond Street, where measurements are taken and cloth chosen in London, then the suit made up in HK. They send it back for fittings and final finishing done in UK, all in about 3 weeks. Excellent quality and much cheaper than usual for true bespoke (as opposed to made to measure) - Â£80 for a pair of wool trousers and Â£36 for a shirt! PM me if you want contact details.
I'm intrigued - how would you define the difference between made to measure and bespoke? I always thought one essential point was whether the chap who measures you cuts the cloth, but how would that fit with having the stuff made up in Hong Kong?
Bespoke means made entirely for you from a pattern the cutter makes from your measurements.
Made to measure means that the tailor will use a standard size pattern which is then adapted to fit you, rather like issued No2 dress, though the suit will be made to order. Many military tailors do this with DJs.
Bespoke is generally more expensive than mtm because of the additional skilled labour, which is why HK and Thai tailors are popular.
... measurements are taken and cloth chosen in London, then the suit made up in HK. They send it back for fittings and final finishing done in UK, all in about 3 weeks. Excellent quality and much cheaper than usual for true bespoke (as opposed to made to measure)
Ye-es - I'd have said something along those lines too - so presumably your Bond St people cut the cloth here and send the components to HK?
I'd like to know because the man I go to in Dorset is quite good but a bit inconsistent and I wasn't over impressed with Mr Golding's stuff. I have little occasion to wear suits these days, but I like a well-fitting coat to go with my Australian work pants. The Dorset man charged me Â£500 for the last one, if I rmember correctly, but that was about three years ago. Would you give me an idea of what your Bond Street people charge? And would they come to the office in W12?
Another difference between MTM and bespoke is that bespoke is entirely hand stitched, where as MTM can be laser cut and machine stitched. Roderick Charles in Jermyn St do the best MTM suits for the money www.roderickcharles.com
You could go for an IWB, but then you'll need 2" of adjustment in the trouser waistband - no problem for even the most ham-fisted tailor. Just watch where jacket vents are placed.
It does as you say present problems when seated, but you can always unholster whilst in a vehicle. Previously we've used De Santis 'waistband clip' holsters, (definitely not on the man,) but as a holster to hold the wpn securely in the centre line car. All this would depend on your level of discretion required and SOPs - and if they can be sensibly rewritten.
With regard to shoulder holsters I've generally found them to be a right royal pain. Will you be wearing the suit during the summer or in hot climates ? Depending on the weight and cut of the jacket, the harness can stick out like bulldog's, although the make and model of the rig plays a large part too.
As to beltless holsters, I recall one some time back that had a syntheyic 'rubber' wedge worn within, but below the waistband. If you're interested then I'll see if they are still available.
For makers, Arratoonian, (Horseshoe Leather,) Bianchi and De Santis are amongst the usual suspects, but I've heard that Dixon has returned from retirement so you could always try him.