Dapper Clothing etc...

#1
As a lowly side-scuttling chap, I bow to the sartorial elegance demonstrated by the British Army.

Does anyone get tailor-made shirts (not uniform) and if so, any good tips? I am a big chap and normally get shirts in Lewins on Jermyn Street. However, the makers seem to equate an 18" collar & long arms with having a gut like a barrel! Any recommendations where I can capture some of the style missing in the average Crab mess? Cheers.
 
#2
Don't know where you are now but there is a bloke comes to UK from Hong Kong doinf 'cheap(er)' suits. Not Sam but from place just behind him. He also does shirts. Get him to make you just one and then see what you think of it. Any Hong Kong shirt'isms can be corrected. If you use Lewins you will know that there are many bespoke shirt makers in that area. As a fellow sufferer, I know that most just add 4 or 5 inches to every measurement and call that good so tailored shirts are what you need.
 
#4
Lewins shirts are dire and best avoided - foreign made and not very good cloth; they haven't been the same since they were taken over by some multi-national. I'm told Lewins shirts are popular with Americans, which should tell you all you need to know. Before resorting to bespoke or made to measure shirts, try Harvie & Hudson - they have two shops on Jermyn Street - and do their ready made shirts in different sleeve lengths - I have a number of their shirts (with the less ape-like arms) which are excellent quality and around £65. They were doing 3 for £100 last week. They also do shirts to measure for less than Turnbull and Asser.
 
#7
Hawes & Curtis have great shirts. Again, the 18" collar presupposes that you're a lardarse, but they'll tailor them for you for a tenner and they look great.
 
#8
Hilditch & Key are fanastic, but limited in choices. They pride themself on detail (i.e stripes always aligning properly). No bespoke option though. Lewins are the Argos of Jermyn Street.
 
#9
Could the popularity of Lewin shirts have anything to do with a 50% Armed forces discount? mind you, they always seem to have a 50% off sale.
 
#10
Lewins is full of 'special purchase' tat and they seem to have endless sales and useless staff. Anyone cutting out the vouchers in 'The Officer' and other publications may well find that Lewins are offering even greater discounts anyway. I like Lt_George's analogy to Argos, to which I add Thomas Pink (Littlewoods) and Charles Tyrwhitt (BHS), both of which seem to employ anyone but British citizens. Quite how a gentleman can be advised in matters sartorial by a foreigner is beyond me.

I agree that Hilditch and Key are good but with limited patterns - they have splendid nightshirts, though. I have a country shirt from Hawes and Curtis, which is good quality but purchased mainly because the assistant described it as 'a particularly brave check, sir'.

Perhaps it would be useful to have a sticky thread here with recommendations for suppliers of gentlemens clothing and accoutrements.
 
#11
For bespoke shirts try New & Lingwood. They're in Jermyn street near the Piccadilly Arcade. Don't know what the prices are like but they have a good reputation. Good luck.
 
#12
For bespoke shirts try New & Lingwood. They're in Jermyn street near the Piccadilly Arcade. Don't know what the prices are like but they have a good reputation. Good luck.
 
#14
George - may I remind you that I am Light Blue, not Light Dragoon!
The Lewins shirts do come in some great fabrics and do come up well. It is not that easy to screw up a reasonable weave cotton. I could almost make another shirt from the extra fabric tho!
I have also not found another shirt maker that has sleeves as long as they do - yes, ape found in RAF! 6'7" tall and 2nd row player, so bespoke it has to be.

Pakeman, Catto & Carter in Cirencester - for those yellow cords and red moleskins some of you chaps wear - they also do an ever-so-stylish smoking jacket - perfect for the Mess methinks!
 
#17
Mr_C_Hinecap said:
George - may I remind you that I am Light Blue, not Light Dragoon!
The Lewins shirts do come in some great fabrics and do come up well. It is not that easy to screw up a reasonable weave cotton. I could almost make another shirt from the extra fabric tho!
I have also not found another shirt maker that has sleeves as long as they do - yes, ape found in RAF! 6'7" tall and 2nd row player, so bespoke it has to be.

Pakeman, Catto & Carter in Cirencester - for those yellow cords and red moleskins some of you chaps wear - they also do an ever-so-stylish smoking jacket - perfect for the Mess methinks!
Anyone seen wearing their green and frankly monstrous smoking jacket needs shooting. 8O

Pakemans also do shirts and given that you admit to being built like Mungo from Blazing Saddles you'll probably have a lot in common with the examples of impeccable inbreeding that go in there from the local agricultural college. :wink: :lol:

The safest bet is to have a wander down Jermyn Street and visit the more reputable establishments. Turnbull and Asser get my vote but they it really depends on budget etc. Haines and Bonner are a new mob setting up shops across the city but they seem to follow the Charles Tyrwhitt mode with crass things like your initials embroidered on your cuff etc :roll:
 
#19
Pakemans are usually very good; I particularly like their 'barking mad' socks and tattersall waistcoat. I cannot, however, recommend their smoking jacket - I tried one and it was made of a lightweight material and fitted poorly. Clarke & Dawe in Belfast do a far superior version which is available in other colours.

initials embroidered on your cuff
Whatever next? They'll be making shirts with pockets, or buttoned cuffs, mark my words! :)
 
#20
Can only agree with the Pakeman's comment. I have been using them a good number of years and have never had a problem with any of their kit.

They have an outlet in Edinburgh now but the staff aren't a patch on the chap that used to work in their Perth franchise a few years back. Top bloke!
 
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