Climbing Aconcagua in Jan-Feb 10, any advice?

Discussion in 'Travel' started by Canader, Oct 29, 2009.

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  1. I'm planning to head up the highest mountain in the Americas. Any advice, apart from 'don't mention the war'?
     
  2. Don't fall off.
     
  3. Bring a coat?
     
  4. Wrap up warm, and dont let go at any stage.



    Serious note, have you thought of getting the climb sponsored to help some of the charities that are in need at the moment?
     
  5. Alsacien

    Alsacien LE Moderator

    Enjoy.

    Wondering why you are asking - how much time have you spent over 4000mtrs?
     
  6. Nope, hadn't thought of that. Mostly because I'm a self-centred little pr*ck. However, seeing as I might need a charitable organization to treat me following my journey, maybe I should consider it. Oh, but that would be too self-centred of me, wouldn't it? :D
     
  7. Alsacien

    Alsacien LE Moderator

    Make sure you get sponsored by the mtr.
    Only about 10-15% will summit in ideal conditions - and the guides won't push those without experience if the conditions drop....
    It's technically easy - they even have fixed ropes to make it even easier, but it takes a long time going up...
    You could tank up on Diamox of course, (if you are not worried about losing a few more brain cells) :D


    My advice is: don't spend the time and the money if you have not done stuff like Kili, Mount Blanc via de Tacul or Monte Rosa. Elbrus is better for prep, but not possible right now I guess.
     
  8. Been up a couple of bumps in the 10-14k range. had a bit of a headache but nothing world ending.

    I'm just wondering if there's anyone out there who's beentheredonethat and can give some advice on what kit to bring
     
  9. It is impossible to smoke fags over 5000m. I can tell you that much.
     
  10. If you roll your own fags it is possible to smoke over 5000 m. You just run the risk of sucking your teeth out while trying to inhale and you have to light it every 10 secs.
     
  11. Alsacien

    Alsacien LE Moderator

    Are you doing the "Normal" route or the Polish Glacier? The normal route needs nothing more than any other 4000mtr + walkable peak in terms of kit, the Polish glacier direct route needs a bit more safety gear. I assume you'll have porters for the base camp (Plaza de Mulas) and will then schlep your own gear up to camps Canada and Berlin as part of the acclimatisation? Who are you going with?
    If you need to come down early this can cost extra in terms of transport and hotels. You also pay for private porters if you are having a rough time.
    I assume you have a kit list from the organiser? If not let me know, same goes for makes/models for particular items.
     
  12. Alsacien

    Alsacien LE Moderator

    Myth mate, there are stupid people everywhere - even on summits :)
     
  13. Not a myth for me mate. Every time I tried to have a bine, as soon as I had a puff I felt like Shit and it made my headache ten times worse. Glad I gave that shit up. The mountaineering not the fags! :D
     
  14. I'm going with an 'unguided' expedition based on some alpine club members, one of whom has summitted twice before and is using this as her warm up for Everest in May, which is her final 7th Summit (holy F*ck, over). Me, this is my personal Everest these days. Just hiring a couple of porters to get our scoff etc up to altitude at the first basecamp location. Apparently we're not 'normal' on this trip but are trying a version of the Polish route, with much more gradual elevation gain involving going around some kind of massive boulder field vs. through it. There's some slippy bits, so ice axe and crampons are advised, but nothing so dramatic as requiring a rope. I assume that it will be windy x 10 and colder than witches t*t.