Bulling Brown Shoes and Sam Brown

#3
I normally put a square of plastic bag over my fingers underneath the Sylvet cloth. That way the funny dye in the polish doesn't turn your fingers yellow.

You can end up looking like you smoke ninety a day!
 
#4
Interceptor said:
I normally put a square of plastic bag over my fingers underneath the Sylvet cloth. That way the funny dye in the polish doesn't turn your fingers yellow.

You can end up looking like you smoke ninety a day!
KIWI is the only suitable polish for this job. Never use Cherry Blossom.
 
P

plw1970

Guest
#7
Latex gloves to keep fingers clean, an old flat iron (not steam iron) is ideal for beeswaxing the sam brown, Heat up the iron, iron the sam brown, rub in beeswax, allow to dry, re-iron, re-wax. Fine glass paper to sand down the sam brown then layer it up and bull as you would your boots. (Good luck!)

Or cheating methods, you have heard of CLINK? (clear and black ink), try CLOWN (clear and brown ink) or better still CPL (clear protective laquer)

Eat meat, carry gun. Eat more meat, carry bigger gun!
 
#9
BigRed said:
Apart from the obvious of get a guardsman to do it any top tips on bulling the brown kit? :?
I have published this on the arrsepedia I hope it helps
kiwi dark tan is as good as black and for your sam brown get a good length of plank and put som nails in it to hold down your belt it makes it easier to polish.
As with shoes a good brush polish first and use a nylon to finish and use a piece of linen to rub along the edges to make sure no polish residue rubs off on your service dress. A good belt storage tip is get a hat box and lay your sam brown coiled around the outside and that will provide protection for it and your forage cap.


[THE BUTLERS] GUIDE TO SHINY FOOTWEAR.

Equipment: Sylvette cloth

Tights ladies gs non-folding.(no fishnets or other patterns)

2x tins of polish. one must be kiwi as it contains natural beeswax.

2x good bristled boot brushes labelled on and off 

Forget the beeswax I have been waxing boots and belts for over 25 years and believe me it is not a task to be taken lightly.

Preparation:

Use the selvyt on your brasses for a bit then scrub it give it a good rinse, this reduces the nap of the material to a decent level for bulling your boots.

Always work with a damp diddley.(selvyt)

Fill your tin lid with clean cold water.

Never use the same polish to brush polish and bob as it gets grit in it.

Always brush polish your boots first. It feeds the leather and helps to remove grit and polish flakes and helps you build up your layering.

Whatever boots you are bobbing(bulling,) either combat ammo or even plimmies (old sod) you must break them in first let them attain their natural creases as this will help reduce flaking when you walk.

Execution:

Remove excess dirt from your boots if necessary then apply a good quantity of polish from your brush polishing tin using your on brush.

Remember to pay attention to the welts removing all dirt.

If your eyelets are a bit worn and brass is showing use a black marker on them.

Using your off brush polish the shoe vigorously till a nice shine appears

Using your tights, rolled in a ball rub over the boots as this gives a very good shiny finish that goes down a treat on first parades down the tank park.

Tie a piece of string to one corner of your damp diddley.

Arrange your hand in the style of a boy scout salute, ie three fingered.

Wrap the diddley around your three fingers making sure the writing is on the outside

Use the string to secure it around your wrist.

Dip your diddley (please don’t snigger) in your water get it nice and wet and then dip it in your bobbing polish.

Apply to one section of your boot at a time rubbing in circles this is to build up the polish layers on your boots.

Keep applying polish and water and soon you will begin to see a dull shine.

As your polish builds up on the leather it will start to shine that is when you start to reduce the amount of polish you apply, just dab your fingers in the kiwi lighter and lighter enlarging the polishing circles. A lot of people have problems finishing of and can ave a smeary or even scrarced appearance. If tis happens to you then try finishing using the water bobbing method

Water bobbing:

Equipment is cotton wool balls and cold rung water.

Take your boots into the bogs ad use a sink.

Run the cold water and put a cotton wool ball under it.

Rub the wool ball on your boots in a circle and a shinier finish will start to appear. Keep rinsing and changing cotton as it will pick up polish flakes that will scratch your boots.

When you are happy with the finish make sure you remove all water from your boots as it dries and leaves white marks if you don’t.

You can if you wish bob over this finish with your diddley and try an even deeper shine.

When you are happy with your boots the next bit is a real cringer.

Wear them!! Put them on lace them up and do a quick stroll round the block.

Why you mad bugger I hear you ask

Your boots will crack along your natural creases if you go on parade with them like that you will impress no one.

When you have the natural crease cracks formed do the following:

Brush them hard with the off brush.

Brush polish them with the on brush.

Brush them vigorously with the off brush.

Rub them with your tights.

Then bob them up again this time the creases will have less polish in them and the rest of your boot won’t crack as much.

Don’t dos:

Clear floor polish Even a cadet instructor will spot that bluff

Set fire to your polish. Never understood that one it depletes the natural oils and wax

Gloss paint. Oh yes I’ve seen it done looks great ends in tears.

Morello a German shoe product actually very good but I’ve seen toecaps fall off on parade. Works well on welts and heels.

Pledge. I’ve seen this widely used by kings troop RHA as a finishing method.

Note: In the cavalry we use our whole hands once proficient at bobbing and you get a feel for when it is right to reduce your polish and water quantities. I am telling you this method because it easier for a beginner to start off with three fingers and I Know any cavalrymen reading this will laugh but you got to start somewhere. I first learned when I was an 11 year old army cadet with a yellow duster and one finger. My basic at Bovington did not teach me any different and it was not until I became officers orderly that the other more experienced orderlies taught me the proper way to bob boots with a diddley. As you get better at it you will develop your own style of what works for you. This is only a rough guide to get you started.
 
#12
All Especially Butler, many thanks for the education. Has ARRSE Mods ever contemplated a sticky that lays down how kit should be worn and top tips like Bulling Boots, remove your epaulettes prior to dry cleaning etc?

May seem obvious if not your first time but would be helpful...............
 
#13
The_Butler.

Lot's of sexual inuendos in that piece or was it just me?
 
#14
plw1970 said:
Latex gloves to keep fingers clean, an old flat iron (not steam iron) is ideal for beeswaxing the sam brown, Heat up the iron, iron the sam brown, rub in beeswax, allow to dry, re-iron, re-wax. Fine glass paper to sand down the sam brown then layer it up and bull as you would your boots. (Good luck!)
Iron it through a piece of brown paper so you don't get residual build up of wax. This will leave it beautifully smooth without the need for glass paper.
 
#16
Ive got a baccy tin full of the following polish(s)

KIWI Brown
KIWI Ox Blood
KIWI Burgundy (hard to get but not impossible)
KIWI Parade Gloss (black)
Wee bit of bees wax (shaved in with a nutmeg scaper)
Mash it all together(dont burn it together) I used the flat end of a stick, just smooth it out in the baccy tin, its bigger than a polish tin.

Keeps for ever once your shoes and Sam Browne are done, just bull them with that mixture.

Maybe I should sell it on Ebay.
 
#17
devilish said:
The_Butler.

Lot's of sexual inuendos in that piece or was it just me?
Sexual in yer endo's are not my style I'm afraid
Maybe sir should give his mind a cold shower :)

sheldrake said:
plw1970 said:
Latex gloves to keep fingers clean, an old flat iron (not steam iron) is ideal for beeswaxing the sam brown, Heat up the iron, iron the sam brown, rub in beeswax, allow to dry, re-iron, re-wax. Fine glass paper to sand down the sam brown then layer it up and bull as you would your boots. (Good luck!)
Iron it through a piece of brown paper so you don't get residual build up of wax. This will leave it beautifully smooth without the need for glass paper.
An iron applies too much heat directly to the leather and can reduce the life of the belt considerably. That lesson was learned by a young officer in Cyprus who trusted his bees waxing to a novice. His belt fell into two halves while on parade. I nearly explained the right way to do it then but you should leave it to the experts. :D

plant_life said:
I've heard you should start off with a base of black polish and then finish off with brown.
Ahh, Mr plant_life tsk tsk. You are describing the conker finish which used to be quite en-vogue with the young officers whose orderlies were cnuts.
If you do this you will darken the leather you have worked so hard for the privilege of wearing and though initially it will look dapper as time wears on your shoes or belt will become two tone like a shaggin conker and that is not acceptable unless u is a plonker. (I just heard geordie mac in my head!!!)
Dark tan light tan and parade gloss neutral are the best and IMHO the only colours you should use on your leather.
All k1w1 obviously
:wink:
 
#18
A mate of mine who was in the cavalry and looked after his troop officers kit reckons (and it's his idea not mine) that you should use red ink on top of your normal brown polish. I was a Vehicle Mechanic and used diesel on my boots to make all bulling irrelevant.
 

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