Building a Breeze block wall

Discussion in 'DIY' started by Hexitele, Sep 26, 2012.

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  1. I'm not exactly gods gift to building work but can throw a Billy Basic wall up. I'm after building a raised bed to finish off a corner of the garden.

    Truth is though I know balls all about Breeze block which is what I'd rather use as I'll be rendering it (eventually). I'm basically building an equalateral (sp) triangle 6foot long on each edge so it should be stable.

    Can I use those ridiculously lightweight blocks or are they just going to soak up the mud into the wall?
    Do I need to put piers in like when you do brick work?

    I know I should probably add this to a DIY forum but I can't be arrsed signing up truth be told.
  2. I admire your honesty.

    I'd tell you the answer to your problems, but I can't be arrsed truth be told.
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  3. Why don't you use sleepers? you'll end up doing a shit load of stupid cuts if you try and build a triangle in blockwork. If you use lightweight blocks they'll be saturated instantly and forever and any render or surface application will blow off (if it sticks in the first place), you'll need to dig and pour a footing, you can't just slap them onto the deck and you'll need to put some sort of capping on top to prevent top down water ingress - if you want it to last- seems like a pain in the arse to me. I was going to do it in my garden, thought about it...saw sense - I used sleepers in the end - not ones impregnated with creosote mind you.
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  4. So how are you overcoming that with blocks then? you'll still end up chamfering edges to get the angles. And at least with sleepers you've only got to remember the mantra of the RE. "If all else fails, six inch nails"
  5. 60 degrees on each corner. Hardly difficult.
  6. Despite the digging/pouring of footings involved, it may be easiest to build poured concrete walls, especially if you want the structure triangular. Effectively, that's the same technique as you'd use if you were building a house, and were starting off with footings and a concrete (rather than breeze block) stem wall.

    Apart from anything else, you're going to have the same trench-digging and footing-pouring to do whether you then build the wall with breeze blocks or pour it.

    Assuming your wall doesn't need to be more than 1 m high, you could make it about 20 cm thick, on a footing 30 cm wide by 20 cm high (as long as your soil isn't ridiculously soft). That's slight overkill, but not much extra work compared to the risks involved in trimming a few cm off here and there.

    It'll need large (5 cm) drainage holes to let the water out.

    You will need reinforcement in both the footings and the wall itself.

    Happy to give more info if you want to go down this route -- I'm not a builder, but I did dig and pour the foundations for my house, which was still standing last time I looked.
  7. Your grasp on maths is outstanding.
  8. No. Cut alternate lifts 60 degrees, then the corners will be properly "bonded". With a 30 degree mitre there is nothing to stop the sides peeling apart at the corners.
  9. I'd go with Flags on this. but I reckon that with a simple garden (non load-bearing structure) you could probably save a bit on the footings but, as he says, is it worth the risk? You'll probably need to hire a mixer but at least you'll get it all done in one day. If you can manage to get some old planks for the shuttering with a strong grain it will give you an attractive texture to the wall. Poured concrete is definitely the easiest way to get your angled corners right.
  10. Ummmm..... with a big saw?
  11. Don't use breeze blocks to build a raised bed, the blocks will eventually succumb to the constant damp and frost and eventually crumble. You can get specialist bricks for this type of job, but expect to pay accordingly.
  12. Delegate.
  13. Chainsaw, job jobbed... surely Apple make one! Breeze blocks the way to go not too difficult or use some engineering bricks though they are a bit more expensive
  14. Reclaimed engineering bricks (blue bricks) are a possibility. You could get away without cutting the corners, just leave the projecting bits as a feature. Architects sometimes do this deliberately, and sometimes when they have forgotten to order any "specials".

    Blue brick not essential, any decent quality reclaimed brick would do.
  15. 4'' concrete block on flat. Dead easy to lay, cut with either a bolster and masher hammer or a 4'' angle grinder with a diamond blade. As already mentioned allow for water drainage. Built my shed with 6'' block and that is 10 x 7m, with an upstairs.