BSA CF2 twist rates?

#2
I got my CF2 off a proper BSA geek a couple of years ago, a .243 stutzen, (so its a 20" barrel) and I recall him telling me that it was a ten inch twist, he also mentioned that back when it was developed, the bullets tended to be a bit heavier with a rounder nose, so recommended they shot better with a heavier bullet, having played a bit it defo seems to shoot better with 100 or 105 grain rather than 90 grain, so thus far he seems to have been right.
 
#4
Careful, that man. I got a serious remote arse-kicking for calling it a 'Stutzen'. I was reminded by an English person that in England they are referred to as 'full-length stocked carbines' or some such shite. Needless to say, the rest of the world still calls them stutzens, especially the folks who actually make them...
 
#5
I got my CF2 off a proper BSA geek a couple of years ago, a .243 stutzen, (so its a 20" barrel) and I recall him telling me that it was a ten inch twist, he also mentioned that back when it was developed, the bullets tended to be a bit heavier with a rounder nose, so recommended they shot better with a heavier bullet, having played a bit it defo seems to shoot better with 100 or 105 grain rather than 90 grain, so thus far he seems to have been right.
Thank you, that would make sense. I'm hoping to have a bit of a session with different weights soon. I'm guessing the 58gn Norma rounds might not do so well.

Can't get the book to show me page 210 for some reason, but thank you for the lead.
 
#6
There is a (rough) way of checking twist rates yourself, if you have a decent cleaning rod:

Take the rod, and place a snug-fitting patch on the jag. Insert the rod 3/4 of the way in (from the breech end obviously). With a black marker put a dot at 12 o'clock on the rod, above a point on the rifle (rear action screw, or back of the action is a good one). Carefully pull the rod out to the rear, holding on to the handle so the rod can turn in sympathy with the rifling. At the point where the dot has rotated and returned to the 12 o'clock position measure the distance from the point on the rifle to the point where the dot has returned to 12 o'clock.

Works within an inch or so (edited to add- I always got it spot on because I had a decent rod. The method is dependent on low drag, which is why you pull it out, not push it in).

PS, 58gr could well work a treat, twist rate is less of an issue as you go lighter.
 
#7
My CF2 in 7x64 shoots it's tightest groups (19mm at 100 meters) with 140gr Blaser CDP. Since I'm mostly hammering pigs and with Reds, fallow and mufflon also on the menu locally I tend to use 170ish gr rounds, my favourite Norma Vulkan shoots, despite a big gaping tip, under 30mm. I've no idea what the twist rate is. I don't know what use that info would be and my barrel has 50 years of life left in it according to a local gunsmith.
 
#8
There is a (rough) way of checking twist rates yourself, if you have a decent cleaning rod:

Take the rod, and place a snug-fitting patch on the jag. Insert the rod 3/4 of the way in (from the breech end obviously). With a black marker put a dot at 12 o'clock on the rod, above a point on the rifle (rear action screw, or back of the action is a good one). Carefully pull the rod out to the rear, holding on to the handle so the rod can turn in sympathy with the rifling. At the point where the dot has rotated and returned to the 12 o'clock position measure the distance from the point on the rifle to the point where the dot has returned to 12 o'clock.

Works within an inch or so (edited to add- I always got it spot on because I had a decent rod. The method is dependent on low drag, which is why you pull it out, not push it in).

PS, 58gr could well work a treat, twist rate is less of an issue as you go lighter.
Blimey, I forgot this thread. I followed this advice and I have a 1 in 10" twist in the old girl.
 

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