bedford / daf Master switch

#9
The switch you are after appears to be Daf not Bedford, they are different bits of kit. If you want yours reconditioned it looks like it will cost you about £225, I wouldn't be surprised if you can find someone else to do it cheaper though.

Reconditioned ones are here:

http://www.applegate.co.uk/listings...d/lucas-battery-master-switch/M2-1196633.html

and here

http://www.findtheneedle.co.uk/prod...tery-master-switch-196sa-ssb101-47-ssb100.asp

Or there appears to be one for auction here: (item 1007241)

http://bti.riversidemedia.ca/forms/auction/

As has been suggested, if you aren't arsed about it being original I would solder the negs together, insulate the remote cutoff cables and fit a simple isolator to the pos line (such as this. it costs 40 bucks, you can get the double pole one if you want to isolate the neg too, for 80).
 
#10
ok its for a crane that moves boats over in St Malo France.

i built it last year, but...

french law says that plant equipment must have a battery master switch on both pos and neg sides.

this particular switch does both.

I retro fitted cut off switches to abide by their laws and they have fused twice. i have no idea how or why it has happened, so now i need a really durable switch which i know is tried and tested and actually works!

i think they are turning off the pos switch before the neg switch, and possibly getting a spark???

either way, its under warranty and i have to find a solution!
 
#11
:roll: Well why didn't you say so? You need to work out what the max current being drawn is and for how long and what the normal use current will be. It sounds like the switches you fitted were the weak link in the system, find some which are rated above the crane's motors, or whatever draws the most current in the system.

A Mechs *tut*
 
#13
spaz said:
:roll: Well why didn't you say so? You need to work out what the max current being drawn is and for how long and what the normal use current will be. It sounds like the switches you fitted were the weak link in the system, find some which are rated above the crane's motors, or whatever draws the most current in the system.

A Mechs *tut*
lol....

FFS...i didnt by them from Poundland!.... these things are from john deere, to their specs!

The one that I fitted is rated at 450A continuous, 800A momentary. which is more than enough. I think it may be operator error!
 
#16
Thread_Bear said:
spaz said:
:roll: Well why didn't you say so? You need to work out what the max current being drawn is and for how long and what the normal use current will be. It sounds like the switches you fitted were the weak link in the system, find some which are rated above the crane's motors, or whatever draws the most current in the system.

A Mechs *tut*
lol....

FFS...i didnt by them from Poundland!.... these things are from john deere, to their specs!

The one that I fitted is rated at 450A continuous, 800A momentary. which is more than enough. I think it may be operator error!
New spares reject :D
 
#17
What makes you so certain the DAF one will be any better? Put a trip in the system and check the ratings. have another look at that Durite eqpt I linked to on the last page. Can't be that hard to sort out! :)
 
#18
EX_STAB said:
What makes you so certain the DAF one will be any better? Put a trip in the system and check the ratings. have another look at that Durite eqpt I linked to on the last page. Can't be that hard to sort out! :)
I dont know for certain, however i need it to be as durable as possible as it next to the sea (salt air and corrosion etc)

and i know that these switches are pretty tough. and both Pos and Neg run through one switch, which im leaning toward to rule out user error.

The durite stuff looks pretty sturdy stuff and i have already forwarded that PDF to the engineering department in america so they can test specific switches before we sell any more machines into France (and Holland).

thanks for the link, it has been a big help
 
#19
what you need is a battery master switch box out of a old chieftain, fox or 432 or something similar they were robust bit of kit and were sealed from the elements the one out of a chieftain would be best as it had bolts for the lug terminals on the back virtually the same as chally in shape
 
#20
sleeper said:
what you need is a battery master switch box out of a old chieftain, fox or 432 or something similar they were robust bit of kit and were sealed from the elements the one out of a chieftain would be best as it had bolts for the lug terminals on the back virtually the same as chally in shape
I did initially think about this, but because they are not mass produced, and they are pretty much vehicle specific, they are difficult to get hold of and they come with a nice price tag.
Thanks for your help anyway

T_B
 

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