Bathroom Shower Glass

Discussion in 'DIY' started by Krieg-Hammer, Feb 8, 2010.

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  1. Ok, looking for a shower glass for the bath (Bath with shower at tap end). In Wickes they were wanting over £150 or so for one. B&Q werent so great either. I dont really want to spend over £100 on one if I can help it. Cheers for any pointers to anywhere that sell them at a reasonable price.


    Thanks
     
  2. Rail and curtain works just fine at fraction of price
     
  3. Get down to a glazier and get him to cut you a chunk of 8 mm glass in the corresponding size. Whack some aluminium profile around it with a rubber seal along the bottom edge and you're in business. You can even get pretty patterns to stick on it.

    MsG
     
  4. I would but it looks pump!

    Thanks for the link I'll check it out.

    Almost got my bathroom finished off, so a nice piece of shower glass would do nicely.... Mmm the SRU logo would look ace.... shame the team doesnt!
     
  5. Ssssssssshhhhssshsssssssss!!!! Sharp intake of breath!
    Not toughened glass? Too risky mate.
    If you must do this then pay the extra for them to send it away for heat treatment to toughen the glass before you fit it.
    Try Freecycle in the UK. There must be one local to you. Join them and put a want ad out for what you want. It'll be second hand of course, but the price is right.
     
  6. I got one from Wickes, I cnt remember how much but it wasnt £150. It was a folding item, possiblt £60 or £70. The same item was in B&Q for the same price.
     
  7. Do you want to open and close it, or is it fixed?

    If you are going to have exposed edges to glass, they need to be ground and polished, the edge is the weakest point on glass.

    I would go for 6.4mm laminated, it will not shatter like 8mm tough (which beads like a windscreen). Laminated is two layers of 3mm glass with plastic interlayer, so it cracks but doesn't fall apart.
     
  8. But before you do it, get him to send the glass off for toughening. BS 6262 should do it - make sure they put a kitemark on it. The pretty patterns would be a good idea too - best to get them etched on before the toughening. It's a requirement to make the glass visible at certain heights. If you get some holes drilled in the glass before it's sent off for toughening, you'll be able to fasten it into place.

    Oh, and make sure that there's a rubber gasket between the glass and the aluminium, otherwise it stands a good chance of breaking.

    Actually, it'd be cheaper to buy a system off the shelf...
     
  9. There's no real need to grind and polish the edges, wiping a strip of offcut glass along all the edges will do. If you want a finer finish, just ask for a fine edge. That removes the added expense of polishing (which isn't really necessary).

    Laminated glass isn't necessary either. You'd really have to go at it to break a sheet of 8 mm glass. The only thing to watch for (as with all glass panes) is that the weight isn't distributed along the whole of the lower edge, but supported at both ends by two wooden or plastic tabs about 3 mm thick. If you have a piece of 8 mm glass of 1 x 1.5 metres, the weight will be about 12 kilos.

    MsG
     
  10. I assume you are talking 8mm Tough, it will take direct impact loading (Guarding), but if an edge is exposed tap near the corner with anything that has bean hardened you'll end up with a pile of beads.
    Laminated will not crack in the same circumstances but will 'shell' instead.

    Hence polished rounded edges to prevent this.

    I do have some 12.5mm anti-ballistic glass going spare, but you'll need a crane to move it, left over from an MOD job :D
     
  11. If you have a piece of 8 mm water of 1 x 1.5 metres, the weight will be about 12 kilos. Glass of the same dimensions would be about 30kg. It's not light stuff.

    The "tabs" are called setting blocks and are used to level the glass and set it at the correct height within the frame. They come in a variety of thicknesses, not just 3mm. It's not a good idea to use wood because it rots.

    Unless you have a very high edge to the bath, part of the glass will be within 800mm of the floor. Building Regulations Part N, Section 1, requires that the glass should either:
    break safely, if it breaks; or
    be robust (for 1m x 1.5m, 10mm thick is recommended); or
    or be permanently protected.

    Laminated glass is probably not the best material to put in a bathroom as the exposed interlayer may be susceptible to the moist conditions. Toughened glass, permanently marked as conforming to BS 6206 (now superseded by EN 12600) is your best bet and won't have you worrying about whether a 2ft long, 1kg shard of glass will presently be making its way towards your sensitive regions.
     
  12. If that's the MoD job that I'm thinking of, I'll have seen your glass in Bedford. :)
     

  13. off course he is gonna have to open it to get into it , even i know that, get a designer one i would say , bath time is so cool...
     
  14. They come in both fixed and hinged types. The hinged ones open, the fixed ones are... well... fixed.

    Remind me not to come round your place for a bath, I prefer hot water. ;)