Automatic Landrover

#81
An update:

Having bought the Sereis 2a last October and with a 6 month old and a full time job free time has been limited however I have made some good progress:

The starting point was to record everything (and photo) that was visual and required fixing, then a strip down was conducted. Parts were bagged and labeled. It become apparent that all sorts of different nuts and bolts were used so any AF were kept and all the others chucked.

Front end body panels were taken off, marked where any repair was needed and stored away. Whilst progress was slow, It was satisfying that by taking my time I was not missing any steps and was methodical.

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Next up was the rear tub, This took me all day due to rusted bolts and as a result of the previous owners handy work. My disc cutter lost it's cherry!
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I was very relived as the chassis is in superb condition. The leaf suspension springs need taking off and refurbishing which is added to the list. Its also got a Salisbury diff which needs a refurb.

Next was taking out the seat pans and floor to expose the gearbox and old fuel tank. The gear box is an original and is in good working order so that will be sold (see below).
IMG_0961.jpg


I think the engine is a Puma conversion, its knackered and will be coming out. The bulkhead on the whole is in good order, it will need some welding where the previous owner has bodged areas.
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This is arriving this week to donate it's engine and auto gearbox as a 200TDI conversion. The mounts are exactly the same however it will be a while before I get round to doing it as loads of other things to get right first.
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For now, that's it. Plenty to be getting on with but thoroughly enjoying the learning. I reckon it's going to be another year before It will be in a condition it's drive able. It will also be MOT exempt however It's good practice to get one every year.
 
#82
Good progress has been made this weekend. I finished most of the strip down,bulk head off and engine, gear and transfer box out.
ASSS.jpg


Unfortunately, the bulk head, despite initial appearance is not in good nick! the bottom has rotted away. This leaves me with a dilemma, do i cut it all out and replace or just buy a new galvanised one. I am leaning towards the latter as this is going to be a 'nut and bolt' job.
I am pleased to say the chassis is absolutely solid, not one bad patch anywhere. It's going to be shot blasted then galvanised.


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The engine is scrap, gearbox is an original so will be put up for sale:

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Just the fuel tanks to remove now, then to the axles. The leaf springs need reconditioning and I might get another spring added in. I hope by the end of April i will be down just to the chassis - full time job, baby and permission from the wife comes first!
 
#83
Well, a quick update....

I was happily working on stripping the chassis and all was going well. It was time to remove the fuel tanks, one situated where the passenger seat is and the big one down the back.
The big one was a welded together piece of shit, I undone all bolts apart from the last as I was going to put stands under to support the weight. Unfortunately, there was no bolt on the last nut and the fuel tank dropped onto my only foot!

A trip to hospital confirmed the worst....broken. It now means I am using my prosthesis as my good leg with crutches, it's a lick but manning on through.

No land rover work until it heals.

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#84
I said no land rover work until my foot heals... I decided as I am still relativity mobile to have a cheeky a few hours on her as I am not the best at doing nothing!

I have been battling this for a few weeks now:
IMG_1824.jpg


For those of you that don't know what this is, it's the steering relay (the casing i should add), it's cylindrical shaped goes through to the bottom of the cross member. It's notorious for being a pain in the arrse to get out. It's got to come out as the chassis is going for shot blasting. To date I have tried the following:

- Penetrating fluid - lots of and left to soak for days
- Extraction tools
- Hydraulic jack chained to the cross member
- Sledge hammer and wooden block (underside)
- Brute force
- Swearing at it

Nothing is moving it, the only option I see left is to cut the cross member to get it out but it's really the last resort. Any other enthusiast's with tips or ideas I could try?
 
#85
I said no land rover work until my foot heals... I decided as I am still relativity mobile to have a cheeky a few hours on her as I am not the best at doing nothing!

I have been battling this for a few weeks now:
View attachment 339674

For those of you that don't know what this is, it's the steering relay (the casing i should add), it's cylindrical shaped goes through to the bottom of the cross member. It's notorious for being a pain in the arrse to get out. It's got to come out as the chassis is going for shot blasting. To date I have tried the following:

- Penetrating fluid - lots of and left to soak for days
- Extraction tools
- Hydraulic jack chained to the cross member
- Sledge hammer and wooden block (underside)
- Brute force
- Swearing at it

Nothing is moving it, the only option I see left is to cut the cross member to get it out but it's really the last resort. Any other enthusiast's with tips or ideas I could try?



Noob question, but can't you just cap it off top and bottom and leave it in place for the shot-blast and galvanising?


It might technically be a removable component, but if its in good nick and locked in place, why damage it or the chassis to get it out? What would be the benefit? I appreciate that some of the OCD types would need to do it for a concours car restoration, but that hardly seems to be the case here.
 
#86
Noob question, but can't you just cap it off top and bottom and leave it in place for the shot-blast and galvanising?


It might technically be a removable component, but if its in good nick and locked in place, why damage it or the chassis to get it out? What would be the benefit? I appreciate that some of the OCD types would need to do it for a concours car restoration, but that hardly seems to be the case here.
You make a valid point, The galvanising would get in and make it unusable so I would need to get it out anyway. Edited to add - If left in place, I couldn't shot blast nor galv the metal it's covering.
 
#87
You make a valid point, The galvanising would get in and make it unusable so I would need to get it out anyway.

Capping it would still work, wouldn't it? E.g. make up a circular steel plate to fit the mating surface, apply some sort of gasket seal, bolt it down tight. Galvanise over the top. Plate and bolts will be discarded anyway, and the mating surface polished off?
 
#88
Reminds me of my old man when I was young, he bought a Defender Safari, needed a new chassis and other stuff.

I remember all the tubs on his shelves full of bolts and tags for each part he took apart.

He wasnt a mechanic but rebuilt the whole thing,

We travelled around Ireland in it, I remember a patrol of troops on lower lough Erne checking it out, pretty sure they had mirrors on sticks to look under it, asked the old man if it was his and where we were from, I felt so proud of those troops, I was in awe!!
 
#89
Only just seen this post but I was going to suggest a 109 instead. Like you have found out, the 200tdi and auto sort of fit straight in.

I had an early B plate 110 V8. So early it was pre-production and was effectively a rangie with a 110 body.

Came with a High Compressin V8 and the 4 speed Lt95 gear box but Ashcroft reckoned a Rangie auto would slot right in. I quite liked the feeling of stirring porridge when changing gears so left it and bought an auto Disco 300TDi instead. I loved both!

Good luck with your build. I know someone who left their right leg in Libya (UN disposal bod...one too many missions) and has an auto Lightweight to run around his croft. Feck knows how he manages or whats actually under the bonnet.
 
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