A submariner in Spain's return to modelling!

Modelling update for any newbies/returners!

I’m SO glad I went for this cheap and cheerful Trafalgar boat model and at a small (1:700) scale! As I said, to be honest, I could have had it assembled from the box in literally 10 or 15 minutes! However, that was not my intent.

So, lessons leant to date:
I’ve never had/used sprue cutters before - dangerous little tinks, aren’t they? Funny how they can shave off a little piece of the kit you wanted to keep! I’d only used nail clippers in the distant past and have a pair on stand-by even now!
I asked the question on here how water based paint sticks to plastic….. It doesn’t, at least not the Humbrol stuff in the kit! Rattle can primer day tomorrow!
Glue - another learning curve. The supplied ‘Airfix’ tube had dried up, so I’m using Revell stuff with the long metal nozzle and AK Standard Density plastic adhesive, with a little brush.
Sanding files and boards were sourced for pennies from the ladies section of the local Chinese bazaar.
Filling - really cheap ‘paintable’ decorater’s filler! About 2 euros for a large tube and fills and sands just fine.
Pin vice - had a play with it making, then filling holes. Going to try the ‘PVA glue window trick’ too.
Blu Tac - never used it when making kits before. Now? Indispensable! As is a loupe and magnifying glass.
Now for the tiny bits - how do you do it? If it is held too tight in the tweezers - off it goes, pinging across the room. Fortunately we have no carpets, so I’ve been able to find every bit. Removing the flash/mould lines on the very small parts has been ‘challenging’.


My kit is supplied with two fin tops. Photo of bridge.

View attachment 616971

One with all the fin doors closed, the other all open. The problem (for me) is that the ‘open’ one requires all masts to be shown raised, and this never happens. My plan is to cut the two sections so I have the open bridge and search/attack periscope wells )filling in the attack hole) and the closed rear section, where I shall drill a hole for the WT mast. This is a more realistic scenario. Whats the best way to cut the two bits to ensure they remain the same overall length when re-assembled?


And finally! If you have read this far… You all think submarines are black underwater - right? (Stand fast some USN and Russian boats). Notice too that there are NO 'windows' as shown on the bow sonar on almost all models.

Well, I’m thinking of going down this route, where the boat has just been docked down after a long time alongside. Photo in dry dock. Didn't know there was THAT much underwater, did you!?

View attachment 616973

This then is the proposed test piece!
We’ll have to see how my imagination and time fit with reality!

Sorry this has been so long, but thank you all for your inspiration.
@SONAR-BENDER - on the subject of colour, one of the T-boats underwent a trial involving blue. It got some publicity at the time, but I can't recall which boat. Then there were the camouflaged First Gulf War O-boats......
 
that blueac can be useful, but watch it doesn't contact a visible area of the model as it can leave a greasy patch, that won't take paint. when spraying that Halfords auto primer paint, do it outside, or better, in the shed. I invert masking tape on a small wood block to take small parts so they won't blow away in the blast of spray paint, bluetac on the unpainted side, may work even better.
crane jib a.jpg
 
Modelling update on my cheap and cheerful Trafalgar boat model / test piece.

I’m trying to (deliberately) use cheap ‘stuff’ instead of top dollar/euro for ‘named’ paints.
For filling I bought 125ml tube of fine decorator’s filler. This has filled the gaps just fine, excess off with a damp cotton bud and sands well.
Paint? I bought a basic kid’s set of 12 acrylic paint tubes for 7 euros and mix as required - they are going on and covering just great.
Brushes came in two packs from our local Chinese bazaar. 5 pointy ones and 5 flat ones - less that 5 euros a set. Primer - this was surprisingly difficult to get, but I got a large tin eventually in a pale beige colour.

More lessons learned:

I should have primed the entire model. Instead I did below the waterline with the primer and above with matt black. (The target look is as in #59 2nd picture). The primer looked great, but the black had a bit of orange peel effect. I’m getting to grips with the acrylic now. At first I was not diluting it enough - it’s amazing how much it can be diluted and still ‘work’, Looks like the You Tube tutorials were right!! It can also be over-diluted...

All the cheap ‘tools’ I bought have done what it said on the box, hence so far I can justify the meagre expense to SWMBO! I’m looking forward to starting ‘Test Piece 2’, the Eduard Spitfire, but shall continue playing with the boat for a while.

Pictures soon when they're not too embarrassing!

The most important thing is - I’m having great fun!
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
Absolutely nothing wrong with cheap stuff to start, there will come a time when your skills overtake the cheap stuff and you will need decent paint and brushes to achieve the next stage, till then enjoy what you have
 

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