A submariner in Spain's return to modelling!

Your post above reminded me of a similar post I made back in 2018 when I decided to get back into modelling and had no concept of PE bendy metal.
The posts that follow may be of interest to you if you want to learn some new fiddly skills.
I plumbed for a cheap "Metal Earth" project involving shaping and fixing steel without solder or super glue and is good practice for bending to the right angles.
Here's the result:
https://www.arrse.co.uk/community/threads/military-modelling.62648/page-603#post-8573175

@SPROCKET321
Looking back down this end of the thread a hell of a lot of your pics are missing.......I also note that some of the regular contributors back in 2018 haven't posted for some time.

Of course, you could of just uploaded them to this site
My problem is that I'm on a Chromebook and can't seem to get my Samsung A30 to upload pictures. I might have to bite the bullet and use my phone direct.
 
My problem is that I'm on a Chromebook and can't seem to get my Samsung A30 to upload pictures. I might have to bite the bullet and use my phone direct.
I have a convoluted method of transferring photos from my phone (Android) to my
IPad by attaching them to an email and sending them to myself then copying them into Arrse, if anyone can recommend a better way I would be most grateful and would happily buy them at least a pint if we ever meet.
 
I have a convoluted method of transferring photos from my phone (Android) to my
IPad by attaching them to an email and sending them to myself then copying them into Arrse, if anyone can recommend a better way I would be most grateful and would happily buy them at least a pint if we ever meet.
We must have similar brain farts, as that was exactly what I was thinking! But being Scottish, can we make it half a pint?
 
If you have a snipping tool (ala Win 10), it's easy if you are using a lappy with an i\Phone or any smart phone and you don't even have to screw around with the originals. I use snip to define the area of photograph I want to display, copy the lassoed area and post it in to the post. No metadata and quality is as good as the original and file size is miniscule.
 
If you have a snipping tool (ala Win 10), it's easy if you are using a lappy with an i\Phone or any smart phone and you don't even have to screw around with the originals. I use snip to define the area of photograph I want to display, copy the lassoed area and post it in to the post. No metadata and quality is as good as the original and file size is miniscule.
Any idea if iOS on an IPad has a similar facility?
 
Quick googlefu gave me this but it's been a few years since I fumbled with my old iPad.
Fumbling is the word I would use for my efforts, sadly my offspring are long left home so all IT stuff has to be done by me.

I will peruse your link, thank you kindly.
 
I load my images from my digital camera into a file once I've reduced the image to 600 pixels using windows paint, keeping images in files for each model, since tinypic went down the toilet and left me high and dry. I use image hosts for Brexitmodeller, Britmod and Airfix tribute forum, armourama allows direct to site like Arrse.
 
I’m a Luddite, but I’ve learnt a little bit! iPhone and iPad as long as the pair are linked via the same Wi-Fi, share the same photos automatically.
 
I have a convoluted method of transferring photos from my phone (Android) to my
IPad by attaching them to an email and sending them to myself then copying them into Arrse, if anyone can recommend a better way I would be most grateful and would happily buy them at least a pint if we ever meet.
Just off the top of my head, have you tried using a cloud storage app like Photobucket (which is available for both Android and iOs? You could upload the photos to it from your phone and then grab them from there into your post once you're on the iPad.
 
Just off the top of my head, have you tried using a cloud storage app like Photobucket (which is available for both Android and iOs? You could upload the photos to it from your phone and then grab them from there into your post once you're on the iPad.
No I haven’t, to be honest once I had cobbled together my method I stuck to the familiar and didn’t bother with anything else, however I may just have to explore the options as my method is somewhat time consuming.
 
Having passed the 'test piece' Sluban submarine toy, this arrived and was assembled today

51w4W-nhyhL._AC_UL116_SR116,116_.jpg

This means that if the glue is dry, I can start on my first 'proper' plastic kit for 40 years.

I intend to a) construct and b) convert this model of HMs/m Trafalgar into HMs/m Swiftsure.

1637081819349.jpeg


For info, both the first of class had tall rudders and propellors rather than propulsors, so that part will be easy. There are some minor changes on the hull, but about 95% of people wouldn't notice! It's the small model at 1:700, but I have an 'off the wall' cunning plan for it....... I also want to practice painting techniques on it. Mysteriously, over the last couple of weeks rattle cans of primer and varnish and various jars of 'normal' acrylic paint have appeared in my man-cave!! Stand by......... and we're off!
 
looking forward to this, what colour is a Submarine? is it a series of black tones, no two feet exactly the same, when a small model of a big man made object is painted one uniform colour it looks fake, when it's all differing shades, it'd look amazing, That's what I'm going for with the tiny model of the massive Liner I'm building now, as many different shades of black, white, red and green I can fit into that tiny model. Good luck, take your time and take regular Tea, coffee, Beer, Rum breaks
 

Daz

LE
looking forward to this, what colour is a Submarine? is it a series of black tones, no two feet exactly the same, when a small model of a big man made object is painted one uniform colour it looks fake, when it's all differing shades, it'd look amazing, That's what I'm going for with the tiny model of the massive Liner I'm building now, as many different shades of black, white, red and green I can fit into that tiny model. Good luck, take your time and take regular Tea, coffee, Beer, Rum breaks
It depends.....Kreigsmarine had a whole host of colours, Japanese are odd, and not forgetting this little number from the USN
1g0vi9me42e01.jpg
pink-submarine.png
 
looking forward to this, what colour is a Submarine? is it a series of black tones, no two feet exactly the same, when a small model of a big man made object is painted one uniform colour it looks fake, when it's all differing shades, it'd look amazing, That's what I'm going for with the tiny model of the massive Liner I'm building now, as many different shades of black, white, red and green I can fit into that tiny model. Good luck, take your time and take regular Tea, coffee, Beer, Rum breaks
The 'sides' are generally a satin/matt colour and the 'flat deck' is a kind of gloss non slip. As you say, the difference between a bit that has been exposed to the atmosphere for a while and a bit fresh out a tin can be amazing! Also, the tiles on the fin seem not to be painted these days (I stand to be corrected) meaning you get this urban camo effect:
Talent-Firth-of-Clyde-Oct-19-Leek.jpg

Which does look a bit better than when they all fall off and look like this:

HMS_Triumph_1_crop.jpg


We didn't have tiles, so there will be a lovely flat fin! All 10/12mm x 25ish mm!!
 
The 'sides' are generally a satin/matt colour and the 'flat deck' is a kind of gloss non slip. As you say, the difference between a bit that has been exposed to the atmosphere for a while and a bit fresh out a tin can be amazing! Also, the tiles on the fin seem not to be painted these days (I stand to be corrected) meaning you get this urban camo effect:
Talent-Firth-of-Clyde-Oct-19-Leek.jpg

Which does look a bit better than when they all fall off and look like this:

HMS_Triumph_1_crop.jpg


We didn't have tiles, so there will be a lovely flat fin! All 10/12mm x 25ish mm!!
just as well, painting those tiny squares would be ....challenging. Even so, there are plenty of subtle shades of black weathering to do to make your rendition interesting.
 

Donny

ADC
Just off the top of my head, have you tried using a cloud storage app like Photobucket (which is available for both Android and iOs? You could upload the photos to it from your phone and then grab them from there into your post once you're on the iPad.
That should work, but why not just use the built-in cloud drives that come with the android phone and apple accounts? Either use the apple iCloud app on the android or the google drive app on the iPad, then just load the photos you want on the cloud storage. So long as the same account is used on both the photos will also be available on both. You can cut them down to the size you want on either, since editing tools are available for both operating systems.
 
NOW I understand some of the comments and woes expressed on the modelling pages!

The kit offers several options, which is good. There are two fin-top options, but, one is with all the fin doors in place, the other, all open. In real life, on the surface only the bridge and one or two masts would be raised. The only time all masts are raised is during the sail-by of a ship to say 'this is what you could have caught'! So I'll be cutting, drilling and filling what is to me, a tiny bit(s) of plastic! Lucky I 'found' a pin vice or three!

While I could have quite literally opened the box and had the kit assembled in 10 or less minutes, it is being used as a 'training and test piece'. As it turns out, 1:700 is quite small for a kit! My boat had a propeller - I have just spent a considerable period cutting the sprues, then cutting off the 'ring' of injection around the prop, then cutting out the bits between the blades! Then, instead of using the new sprue cutter I'd bought found in my old toolbox, I reverted to the good old nail clippers for the final trim - curved clippers and curved prop blades!

Now, how can I sneak out to the shed and spray some rattle can primer, so I can play with my (cheap) black acrylic? After sanding the mould lines (very carefully) off the prop.
 
Modelling update for any newbies/returners!

I’m SO glad I went for this cheap and cheerful Trafalgar boat model and at a small (1:700) scale! As I said, to be honest, I could have had it assembled from the box in literally 10 or 15 minutes! However, that was not my intent.

So, lessons leant to date:
I’ve never had/used sprue cutters before - dangerous little tinks, aren’t they? Funny how they can shave off a little piece of the kit you wanted to keep! I’d only used nail clippers in the distant past and have a pair on stand-by even now!
I asked the question on here how water based paint sticks to plastic….. It doesn’t, at least not the Humbrol stuff in the kit! Rattle can primer day tomorrow!
Glue - another learning curve. The supplied ‘Airfix’ tube had dried up, so I’m using Revell stuff with the long metal nozzle and AK Standard Density plastic adhesive, with a little brush.
Sanding files and boards were sourced for pennies from the ladies section of the local Chinese bazaar.
Filling - really cheap ‘paintable’ decorater’s filler! About 2 euros for a large tube and fills and sands just fine.
Pin vice - had a play with it making, then filling holes. Going to try the ‘PVA glue window trick’ too.
Blu Tac - never used it when making kits before. Now? Indispensable! As is a loupe and magnifying glass.
Now for the tiny bits - how do you do it? If it is held too tight in the tweezers - off it goes, pinging across the room. Fortunately we have no carpets, so I’ve been able to find every bit. Removing the flash/mould lines on the very small parts has been ‘challenging’.


My kit is supplied with two fin tops. Photo of bridge.

swift fin.jpg


One with all the fin doors closed, the other all open. The problem (for me) is that the ‘open’ one requires all masts to be shown raised, and this never happens. My plan is to cut the two sections so I have the open bridge and search/attack periscope wells )filling in the attack hole) and the closed rear section, where I shall drill a hole for the WT mast. This is a more realistic scenario. Whats the best way to cut the two bits to ensure they remain the same overall length when re-assembled?


And finally! If you have read this far… You all think submarines are black underwater - right? (Stand fast some USN and Russian boats). Notice too that there are NO 'windows' as shown on the bow sonar on almost all models.

Well, I’m thinking of going down this route, where the boat has just been docked down after a long time alongside. Photo in dry dock. Didn't know there was THAT much underwater, did you!?

swiftsure in drydock.jpg


This then is the proposed test piece!
We’ll have to see how my imagination and time fit with reality!

Sorry this has been so long, but thank you all for your inspiration.
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
Modelling update for any newbies/returners!

I’m SO glad I went for this cheap and cheerful Trafalgar boat model and at a small (1:700) scale! As I said, to be honest, I could have had it assembled from the box in literally 10 or 15 minutes! However, that was not my intent.

So, lessons leant to date:
I’ve never had/used sprue cutters before - dangerous little tinks, aren’t they? Funny how they can shave off a little piece of the kit you wanted to keep! I’d only used nail clippers in the distant past and have a pair on stand-by even now!
I asked the question on here how water based paint sticks to plastic….. It doesn’t, at least not the Humbrol stuff in the kit! Rattle can primer day tomorrow!
Glue - another learning curve. The supplied ‘Airfix’ tube had dried up, so I’m using Revell stuff with the long metal nozzle and AK Standard Density plastic adhesive, with a little brush.
Sanding files and boards were sourced for pennies from the ladies section of the local Chinese bazaar.
Filling - really cheap ‘paintable’ decorater’s filler! About 2 euros for a large tube and fills and sands just fine.
Pin vice - had a play with it making, then filling holes. Going to try the ‘PVA glue window trick’ too.
Blu Tac - never used it when making kits before. Now? Indispensable! As is a loupe and magnifying glass.
Now for the tiny bits - how do you do it? If it is held too tight in the tweezers - off it goes, pinging across the room. Fortunately we have no carpets, so I’ve been able to find every bit. Removing the flash/mould lines on the very small parts has been ‘challenging’.


My kit is supplied with two fin tops. Photo of bridge.

View attachment 616971

One with all the fin doors closed, the other all open. The problem (for me) is that the ‘open’ one requires all masts to be shown raised, and this never happens. My plan is to cut the two sections so I have the open bridge and search/attack periscope wells )filling in the attack hole) and the closed rear section, where I shall drill a hole for the WT mast. This is a more realistic scenario. Whats the best way to cut the two bits to ensure they remain the same overall length when re-assembled?


And finally! If you have read this far… You all think submarines are black underwater - right? (Stand fast some USN and Russian boats). Notice too that there are NO 'windows' as shown on the bow sonar on almost all models.

Well, I’m thinking of going down this route, where the boat has just been docked down after a long time alongside. Photo in dry dock. Didn't know there was THAT much underwater, did you!?

View attachment 616973

This then is the proposed test piece!
We’ll have to see how my imagination and time fit with reality!

Sorry this has been so long, but thank you all for your inspiration.
Good luck building the dock
 

Latest Threads

Top