Builds 1/12 scale Harley Davidson U.S. Army WLA motorcycle by IMEX

I had one of those, as a runabout.
46 cubic inch side valve v-twin.
The throttle and front brake lever were in the usual place. There was a twist grip on the left handlebar too, which operated ignition advance/retard. No handlebar lever on the left though, as the clutch was operated by the right foot, a heel and toe affair which could be placed in any position without springing into the engaged position. It meant that you could take your foot off and place it on the ground whilst the thing was in gear. It also helped in muddy going as you could put the clutch into a slipping mode whilst paddling with both legs.
Gear change was hand operated lever in a simple 3 speed gate on the side of the tank.

Sounds like a WLA/WLC 45 (45 cubic inch/750cc) wartime model.
It was seeing European bikes with foot gearchange and handlebar clutch which brought HD into our modern ways.
Imagine braking hard into a downhill curve with the HD 'suicide clutch' - shutting throttle whilst using front brake with one hand, changing down with tank mounted gearchange with the other whilst pressing down on foot clutch and foot brake!
 
Sounds like a WLA/WLC 45 (45 cubic inch/750cc) wartime model.
It was seeing European bikes with foot gearchange and handlebar clutch which brought HD into our modern ways.
Imagine braking hard into a downhill curve with the HD 'suicide clutch' - shutting throttle whilst using front brake with one hand, changing down with tank mounted gearchange with the other whilst pressing down on foot clutch and foot brake!
The “suicide clutch” difficulty was ameliorated to an extent by having friction washers on the clutch heel-and-toe pedal pivot. You could declutch by pressing down the back half of the pedal. The pedal would remain in that position, or any other position which you wanted, until you re-engaged the clutch by pressing with the toe.
I once had an incident where the bottom two frame tubes had grounded on the edge of a concrete step. The back wheel was spinning in a rut of it’s own making. I tried to pull the bike forward on to the step, but it was too heavy for me. So I slipped on half clutch to provide a little motive force to supplement my muscles. I was standing in front, facing the thing and pulling on a sort of badge bar which was mounted on the girder forks.
It worked, and the beast’s rear wheel climbed over the edge of the step. However, it kept going - that big side valve thumping slowly, bottom gear. I didn’t want to drop it, so I just clung on slowly walking backwards. The situation resolved itself when we hit a wall, with me on tiptoe and the front wheel poking between my legs. The tyre hit the wall and the bike stalled.
If my inside leg measurement had been a couple of inches less I would have been talking like Donald Duck.
 
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This pile of scrap is the spares and parts for a pathetic "pocket" bike in the kit, I'd have preferred all that to have been associated with the actual model in the kit. spares box, never throw anything away.
spare parts.jpg

front forks dry fitted onto the front of the frame, there are loads of bits left to go on before the front wheel is in place.
front wheel nearly on.jpg
 

Daz

LE
aha!
sadly in 1:48
and they're Fighter chaps.

And the hound is the wrong colour... for a Lancaster pilot.
icm-icm48081-raf-pilots-and-ground-personnel-1939-1945.jpg

cmk-czech-master-kits-cmf72079-raf-pilots-before-flight-x-3.jpg
If it can be found, the set needed is Revell 02401-PO Pilots & Ground Crew Royal Airforce WWII
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the Bike is moving along slowly, I can't stress the importance of letting the last stage dry and cure, harden in place before moving on to the next stage, lest it all ends in a untidy mess. the foot rest, fitted fine, the right hand one had a short shotted fitting lug, so I used stretched sprue, quite thickly pulled out, for strength, drilled out the sanded off short shotted stub, drilled and glued in the sprue, cut to length it fitted fine.
foot rest left side.jpg
 

Daz

LE
:eek:Did @Daz just recommend a Revell kit? It's the end of days!
He likes shit kits......and beside, what makes you think they'll fit :)
 
the tank in two halves fit around the top of the frame.
teardrop tank a.jpg


the headlamp bucket fits ok, but needs spring tweezers to clamp it together.
front lamp housing trial fit.jpg
 
using silver baking foil for the reflective surface inside the headlamp bucket, keeping it well back from the rim so the clear part fits.
headlamp silver foil.jpg

in position, I'm pleased with how the lamp looks, the light reflects back out through the lens far better and more realistically than if I'd painted it silver. the only part of a kit I'd welcome chrome.
headlamp silver foil a.jpg
 
Not made any models from IMEX before, They were from Brooksville Fl, and this is kit number 468, so they brought a few out in their time. I think they've probably gone the way of the Dodo by now.
Here's the first step in the instructions, but there's no potted history that you get with companies like Airfix and Tamiya. So I've no idea the the WLA one nine eight oh was in service, 1980?
View attachment 617719
Another kit that seems to have been reissued multiple times with not much difference between issues.

As to the "WLA 1980"


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Bordon/hants

Old-Salt
Last post saved me the trouble....later Big Twins were never used by the forces, Police and Shriners yes. The last military "real" Harley was the Sportster based 883 cc XLA (1957-65) they made just a few hundred. The Harley badged Rotax was used in the Gulf but is just that, a badge job.

A good projet would be to get a Sportster kit and scratch build the proper bits, as I doubt there is a XLA kit out there.
 
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