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24-01-2012, 13:25 #21
I spent two weeks changing a battalions worth on my own, a blowtorch works far far better than any de-activator with a screwdriver and a couple of feet of scaffold bar to ease it along. Unfortunately on one I forgot to remove the roll pin and mongo'd the fucking thing off the entire thread. I only noticed when I came to put the vortex on. So one barrel failure out of 600 isn't too bad.
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24-01-2012, 13:27 #22
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24-01-2012, 14:19 #23Senior Member
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24-01-2012, 15:01 #24
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24-01-2012, 16:25 #25
After speaking to Loctite UK, I have found out they do not supply any kind of De-Activator and that the substance that was used to glue the "bird cage" eliminators is more than likely solvent resistant. So heat and pressure it is.
And somebody did suggest Loctite 768, but this turns out to be an American product and realy only works on superglue.
Time to give the armourers the good news
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24-01-2012, 17:46 #26
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25-01-2012, 17:24 #27
Tell them to expect some fucking loud cracking as they take some of them off. Luck of the draw with the buggers, some come off with just a few seconds of heat. Others take a 20-30 second exposure to the blow torch and are still absolute fuckers to get off. Resort to a pipe wrench and a bar of scaffold for the stubborn ones.
Quite honestly with the amount of birdcage ones that get destroyed in this process it would make far more sense to get a SBFS sorted out for the vortex eliminators. Of course that would require someone to have a bloody braincell. Fifteen years of being sat on the rifle and they wonder why they get fucking ruined when you take them off.
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25-01-2012, 18:51 #28
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26-01-2012, 13:27 #29
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27-01-2012, 10:30 #30
Interesting solution to "glue" them on

We just screw them on and off(G-36, flash-hider)
They are secured by a little spring at the barrel, no fuzz in changing them.


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to secure bird cage and operation vortex flash eliminators, flame thrower to get the fecker off 






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