Gah, my boots are all nasty and scuffed after about 3/4 months of mistreatment and non-polishing... is there any way of bulling them back to black w/o the dodgy brown colour that often appears when i polish them now? (the dodgy brown/black colour is only where the scuff is.

Get some shoe dye and re colour the leather then you can bull as usual.
That was an easy one. :D

Thankies the_butler

Hiya Butler. First of all thanks for all your info.

I spent six weeks on an AAAD course three months ago at Catterick and used all your tips to a very satisfying result.

I can safely say that my ammo boots stood up there with the best of them.

Anyway - I've just brought a new pair of British army ammo boots ( my old ones were 1953 issue and I had to burn the very hard orange peel down with a spoon before applying the bees wax. Not bad but much left to be desired) and I was wondering if I could use a hand drill buffer to smoothen the beez wax down after applying it to the boots?

I've got a hand drill and can apply a small buffer bit to it. Once I've applied the wax and let it dry do you think it'll be OK to smoothen down with the buffer bit or not?

Desperately waiting for your much appreciated guidance on this matter

RogerM

If your boots are really tatty or they have scars, use sand paper and emry paper, then re polish (especially those old, hard ammo boots with deep rutts)

Originally Posted by RogerM

Hiya Butler. First of all thanks for all your info.

I spent six weeks on an AAAD course three months ago at Catterick and used all your tips to a very satisfying result.

I can safely say that my ammo boots stood up there with the best of them.

Anyway - I've just brought a new pair of British army ammo boots ( my old ones were 1953 issue and I had to burn the very hard orange peel down with a spoon before applying the bees wax. Not bad but much left to be desired) and I was wondering if I could use a hand drill buffer to smoothen the beez wax down after applying it to the boots?

I've got a hand drill and can apply a small buffer bit to it. Once I've applied the wax and let it dry do you think it'll be OK to smoothen down with the buffer bit or not?

Desperately waiting for your much appreciated guidance on this matter

RogerM

Those new, non dimpled, boots are realy good especialy if you get a double/triple tapped pair. The soles are so thick and inflexible you get a vast reduction in cracking and creasing.

Anyhoo. hand buffer. I tend to smooth out the last layer of beeswax using my burner, passing over the boots just enough to melt the wax evenly over the leather. Then I remove all the drips from the welt and rub the remainder into the side of the sole so it too can be bulled up.
I have not heard of using a buffer but by all means give it a go. At that stage there is not too much you can do wrong that cannot be rectified. :D
If it does work let me know because you are never too old to learn new tricks. (death permitting.)
Afterthought:
Beware of transferring fibres from the buffer to the wax. I tried to use a nylon as a quick alternative to brushing the wax smooth. Did not notice till I started bulling that tiny nylon fibres had transferred and started scratching the finish while I was bulling.
The only way to get it right is to do all the wrong things first

Originally Posted by the_butler

Originally Posted by RogerM

Hiya Butler. First of all thanks for all your info.

I spent six weeks on an AAAD course three months ago at Catterick and used all your tips to a very satisfying result.

I can safely say that my ammo boots stood up there with the best of them.

Anyway - I've just brought a new pair of British army ammo boots ( my old ones were 1953 issue and I had to burn the very hard orange peel down with a spoon before applying the bees wax. Not bad but much left to be desired) and I was wondering if I could use a hand drill buffer to smoothen the beez wax down after applying it to the boots?

I've got a hand drill and can apply a small buffer bit to it. Once I've applied the wax and let it dry do you think it'll be OK to smoothen down with the buffer bit or not?

Desperately waiting for your much appreciated guidance on this matter

RogerM

Those new, non dimpled, boots are realy good especialy if you get a double/triple tapped pair. The soles are so thick and inflexible you get a vast reduction in cracking and creasing.

Anyhoo. hand buffer. I tend to smooth out the last layer of beeswax using my burner, passing over the boots just enough to melt the wax evenly over the leather. Then I remove all the drips from the welt and rub the remainder into the side of the sole so it too can be bulled up.
I have not heard of using a buffer but by all means give it a go. At that stage there is not too much you can do wrong that cannot be rectified. :D
If it does work let me know because you are never too old to learn new tricks. (death permitting.)
Afterthought:
Beware of transferring fibres from the buffer to the wax. I tried to use a nylon as a quick alternative to brushing the wax smooth. Did not notice till I started bulling that tiny nylon fibres had transferred and started scratching the finish while I was bulling.
The only way to get it right is to do all the wrong things first

If those boots are triple tapped, tapping aint what it use to be.

Yup wrong picture.......BUSTED

Again thanks for your advice Butler. Will give it a try next week-end. I am convinced I should stick with your way of doing them which is safer and definitely works. My time at Catterick proved that your advice works best. Thank God I was never picked up on me boots.

Regards from Malta G.C

Well this is my method that I generally use now and it works a treat for me, very simple, also.

You will need:
- Matches or a lighter
- Yellow Duster
- Kiwi parade gloss or normal kiwi black polish
- Small tub of cold water
- Your boots that need polishing

1. Set the polish alight for around 5-8 seconds.
2. Immediately grab your yellow duster, wrap round one finger and gently dab slightly into the water.
3. Stick your finger with the duster around it into the melted polish, you should have a good amount on the end of your finger.
4. Grab your boot and go around the toe cap in little circular motions until it is all dull.
5. Wipe off with either another duster or the other end of the duster.
6. Repeat step 4 a few times, using less and less polish each time.
7. Add two final layers just around the very top of the toe in a ) formation, then wipe off in little circles, this intenses the shine here.

Takes around 40-50 minutes for the whole pair, and works a treat :D