ARmy Rumour SErvice

**Flying Felix** · 29-07-2012, 10:00

After 2 years of asking I’ve now got back my multi stage press (lent it out over 12 years ago after the handgun ban) and I’m now starting to reload rifle ammo.

Every manual I read recommends something different to using case lube:

1. Lube all cases.
2. Only lube if not using carbide dies.
3. No need to lube for pistol cases.
4. Only need to lube for bottle neck cases.
5. Fully lube rifle cases even when using carbide dies.
6. No need to lube rifle cases when using carbide dies.
7. Only need to lube the neck of bottle necked rifle cases.
8. No need to lube the neck of bottle necked rifle cases when using carbide dies.

Etc….etc…..etc

Are Lyman, Dillon, Lee and RCBS just trying to sell more kit, or is there an actual realistic answer.

By the way I always use carbide dies.

And another thing…..if a single dice is called a die why is the plural of die dies?

Confused from Lancs

**Alsacien** · 29-07-2012, 10:11

If you don't lube rifle cases they will get jammed - which will mean an inconvenient trip to a gunsmith who will relieve you of a tenner.....

It does not matter how good your die is, the failure point will be at the case rim in the shell holder...

**Beerhunter** · 29-07-2012, 10:14

Here are my simple rules (after about thirty years of relodding) : no need to lube carbide dies.

Always lube non carbide dies and lube inside the neck of bottle-neck rifle cases. (In order to assist the expander on the up stroke.)

Carbide dies for bottle-necks,that must be new because I haven't come across them and I'm not sure how they would work. Carbide pistol dies have a carbide tin that does the sizing.

BTW although some cartridges look straight-sided (and therefore one can get carbide dies for them) they are not for example 9mm Parabellum. In that case I use non-carbide dies.

BTW2, because dice and die are different words from different roots.

**Alsacien** · 29-07-2012, 10:19

Originally Posted by Beerhunter

Here are my simple rules: no need to lube carbide dies.

Always lube non carbide dies and lube inside the neck of bottle-neck rifle cases.

Carbide dies for bottle-necks,that must be new because I haven't come across them and I'm not sure how they would work.

BTW although some cartridges look straight-sided (and therefore one can get carbide dies for them) they are not for example 9mm Parabellum. In that case I use non-carbide dies.

I jammed a Snider .577 into a carbide die......

**Beerhunter** · 29-07-2012, 10:22

Originally Posted by Alsacien

I jammed a Snider .577 into a carbide die......

Are they genuinely straight-sided? (See my point about 9mm Para.)

**Alsacien** · 29-07-2012, 10:25

Originally Posted by Beerhunter

Here are my simple rules (after about thirty years of relodding) : no need to lube carbide dies.

Always lube non carbide dies and lube inside the neck of bottle-neck rifle cases. (In order to assist the expander on the up stroke.)

Carbide dies for bottle-necks,that must be new because I haven't come across them and I'm not sure how they would work. Carbide pistol dies have a carbide tin that does the sizing.

BTW although some cartridges look straight-sided (and therefore one can get carbide dies for them) they are not for example 9mm Parabellum. In that case I use non-carbide dies.

BTW2, because dice and die are different words from different roots.

I have a set of Dillon carbide dies in .223, marketed for heavy use, they recommend lubing.

I don't reload pistol so cannot comment.

**Flying Felix** · 29-07-2012, 10:27

Originally Posted by Alsacien

If you don't lube rifle cases they will get jammed - which will mean an inconvenient trip to a gunsmith who will relieve you of a tenner.....

It does not matter how good your die is, the failure point will be at the case rim in the shell holder...

Are you referring to a separated case?

If you say that the week point is at the rim and shell holder, then there is no point in applying lube as this part is not sized by the die.

**Alsacien** · 29-07-2012, 10:28

Originally Posted by Beerhunter

Are they genuinely straight-sided? (See my point about 9mm Para.)

Not really, they are custom made to give a .595 neck size for the first 15mm or so (which springs back nicely to seat a .590 minie).

**Alsacien** · 29-07-2012, 10:31

Originally Posted by Flying Felix

Are you referring to a separated case?

If you say that the week point is at the rim and shell holder, then there is no point in applying lube as this part is not sized by the die.

If your case is tight in the die, the rim will just get pulled out of the case holder. With cases with weak rims (like Snider), this is easier than with some more robust cases.