Dapper Clothing etc...

**Sandbanks** · 31-03-2009, 11:13

Originally Posted by Mutt

Can any of the sartorially aware on here tell me whether or not black marcella bow ties exist, and if so, where to get one? I'm a bit bored of the silk/satin type ones, doesn't look quite right with my Prince Charlie jacket etc.

Mutt

Never seen one I'm afraid.

**Carcass** · 31-03-2009, 12:30

you could, of course, dye a white one...

**Devlin24** · 10-05-2009, 20:46

For evening dress is it better form to wear a dress shirt with a wing-tipped collar or normal collar?

Cheers!

D

**Litotes** · 10-05-2009, 20:49

Originally Posted by Devlin24

For evening dress is it better form to wear a dress shirt with a wing-tipped collar or normal collar?

Cheers!

D

I have seen both used with evening dress. And I have worn both without comment although I found the wings uncomfortable.

Litotes

**Omega90129** · 10-05-2009, 23:22

Sorry to change the subject but I have my Main Board in 3 weeks and am about to order a new suit from Pakeman but I'm undecided as to whether I should go for 2 or 3 buttons? Is one considered more correct or classic or is it just personal preference? I tend to prefer the look of 2 buttons but not sure if 3 would be a wiser choice. I'm 6'1'' with a fairly strong build if that helps?
Also, in your opinion which material is smarter, Pinhead or Herringbone.

Sorry if this has been asked before or is a stupid question but had a search and couldn't find anything.

Cheers for the help

**Invictus_88** · 10-05-2009, 23:53

Originally Posted by Devlin24

For evening dress is it better form to wear a dress shirt with a wing-tipped collar or normal collar?

Cheers!

D

(Wah?)

Black tie, normal. White tie, wing.

**jew_unit** · 11-05-2009, 02:06

Originally Posted by Omega90129

Sorry to change the subject but I have my Main Board in 3 weeks and am about to order a new suit from Pakeman but I'm undecided as to whether I should go for 2 or 3 buttons? Is one considered more correct or classic or is it just personal preference? I tend to prefer the look of 2 buttons but not sure if 3 would be a wiser choice. I'm 6'1'' with a fairly strong build if that helps?
Also, in your opinion which material is smarter, Pinhead or Herringbone.

Sorry if this has been asked before or is a stupid question but had a search and couldn't find anything.

Cheers for the help

Personally I'd never order a suit online unless I was sure of the cut. You can very easily end up looking like a 'sack of shit tied up in the middle' (attested to by the fact that only 2 of 13 potential medical officers at my recent aquaint visit had correctly fitting suits). However, I assume you know what you're doing.

As for the suit, 2 buttons is more classic and the low lapels can make someone with a good build look excellent. However, taller people may need three buttons to balance out the extra chest. What size are you going for? Also, what do you mean by 'strong build.' Does your upper body look like a cricketer/football player (normal build, but with muscle) or a rugby forward (just plain huge)? If the former then probably 2 buttons, if the latter then probably 3.

I'm probably about your age and I wouldn't yet go for a grey suit as I think they suit older men a bit better and therefore look wrong on anyone under 30. I think the pinhead would, therefore, be a good choice.

**Carcass** · 11-05-2009, 08:50

If you're going to have one suit for all (or at least as many as possible) occasions then dark grey/charcoal is the way to go.

**para_medic** · 11-05-2009, 09:06

I would suggest you have a look at this: The English Cut will give you some good hints. (Mahon is actually recommending M&S with which I agree for a "fighting suit") Also, whatever you buy it must be 100% wool and a classic English cut.
Pakeman is a good starting point but it would be better if you would visit one of their shops or be prepared for an extra few quid to get it tweaked (order one size up if in doubt).
Concerning the 2 or 3 buttons on a SB: your choice as long as its not more

and that the one button which is actually closed (upper or middle) lies at your waistline.

**Omega90129** · 11-05-2009, 10:24

Thanks for all the advice. I know ordering online is not ideal but I was planning on seeing how it fitted when it arrived and if it looked like a 'sack of s*** tied up in the middle' then sending it back! I realise it won't fit perfectly either way so will definitely have it altered by a high street tailor so will hopefully look semi acceptable. Than

As for my build, I would say I'm more towards a cricketer's than a 'huge' forward: 42" chest, 36" waist, 6'1'' and 14 stone/89kg. Definitely not skinny or huge but somewhere in between, hence my problem with 2 or 3 buttons!
At this point I'm leaning towards 2 buttons although open to suggestions.

On a side note, does anyone know of a good high street alteration tailor in London who would do a decent job with adjusting the suit?

Thanks again

**Devlin24** · 11-05-2009, 10:48

(Wah?)

Black tie, normal. White tie, wing.[/quote]

No not a Wah. Was just checking. Thanks for the replies.

**para_medic** · 11-05-2009, 10:52

Originally Posted by Omega90129

On a side note, does anyone know of a good high street alteration tailor in London who would do a decent job with adjusting the suit?

Thanks again

Copperfield of Moorgate comes highly recommended http://www.allinlondon.co.uk/directory/1188/27506.php

**Cougar** · 11-05-2009, 11:00

Looking to buy some websters kit. Someone on this forum must have some kit going begging, surplus to requirement?

i.e. Red cords, yellow shirts, green waistcoats, tweed jackets, etc, etc!

:D :D :D

**Voltiguer** · 11-05-2009, 11:04

Originally Posted by Mutt

Can any of the sartorially aware on here tell me whether or not black marcella bow ties exist, and if so, where to get one? I'm a bit bored of the silk/satin type ones, doesn't look quite right with my Prince Charlie jacket etc.

Mutt

I have seen a black marcella RN mess undress waistcoat, worn by someone who wanted something different from the cummerbund but without shelling out for a barathea/doeskin waistcoat. You might try naval tailors then, for a black marcella bow tie?

There again, normally the marcella waistcoat is white and used for balls and the like rather than dinners, so he may well have just acquired another white one then dyed it himself

Didn't look that good anyhow...

**dra1n5** · 11-05-2009, 16:19

I'm really pleased with my one and only decent(ish) Pakeman's suit. However, I think you will find it will need some tweaking (see their catalogues to see how boxy they can look and I am sure that the models all end up with short length jackets thrown at them because the proper lengths in the body would look too long in the arm).

I also suspect that getting it done locally will be a lot quicker than them doing it in-house. Mine took a few weeks and even then had to go back for a bit more work (pesky sleeves again).