Originally Posted by Westpoint

I have worked in one of the foremost Research Labs for an Electrical Manufacturer, So I know about measuring the effects of different conditions such as different voltages and different materials.

No you didn't, you bluffing can't. Unless your work involved janitorial activities.

Originally Posted by Westpoint

What has cost got to do with it?

The cost is directly proportional to your resistance to admitting that you were conned.

Originally Posted by Onetap

The cost is directly proportional to my resistance to admitting that you are correct.

Do you really understand about Electrical resistance and voltages and Research and Development?

FFS, all I wanted was some advice I am beginning to wish I had never asked the question in the first place.

Originally Posted by shaka

FFS, all I wanted was some advice I am beginning to wish I had never asked the question in the first place.

Oil Filled panels/radiators HOLD the heat BETTER.

Originally Posted by Westpoint

Do you really understand about Electrical resistance and voltages and Research and Development?

Or more to the point, do you?

What on earth has R&D to do with anything contained in this thread?

Why haven't you, with the benefit of having worked in one of the foremost Research Labs for an Electrical Manufacturer, yet defined 'effectiveness'?

I have often used those stoves powered by a calor gas cylinder. Dont know what they cost in UK nor the cost of the gas but they are portable, were reasonably clean,were cheap and they warm a place up pdq.Also kids and pets cant knock them over. Good for budget too because you pay as you go

Originally Posted by shaka

FFS, all I wanted was some advice I am beginning to wish I had never asked the question in the first place.

I'm starting to wish you hadn't as well. Westpoint got a bit of free friendly advice at post 19 and is now trying to unteach me my profession. I'm going to go back to bullshitting about SMGs.

Try DIY-not.
Plumbing and Central Heating Forum - DIYnot.com - DIY and Home Improvement
There's a sparks forum there, as well.

I don't use them (so take this with a pinch of salt), but I'd have thought an oil filled job would last longest, if it didn't leak. The resistance elements can get astoundingly hot in air. The oil cools the heater elements and takes the heat to the steel walls of the oil filled rad.

I would, very seriously, check the amount of heat you'd need to put in to keep it at a temperature you'd find reasonable. Electric heating could be a huge waste.

If you want to spend a lot of dosh, you might investigate air source heat pumps (ASHP). A refrigeration heat-pump system, they cool in summer (usually useful for a conservatory) and can heat in winter with a reversible cycle. The COP is usually around 3, so you get 3 kW of heat/cool for every kW of electricity. The COP goes to pot in near freezing conditions and it becomes useless as a heater. Probably eligible for RHI payments if the installer is approved. Have a Google.

Originally Posted by Onetap

Laws of physics, mate, conservation of energy and all that stuff.
If you use 1 unit of electric energy in an electric heater, the energy has got to go somewhere and it all comes out as heat. There's nowhere else it can go.



Nope, all marketing techno-waffle bollocks I'm afraid. Some manufacturers use more advertising waffle than others. The distribution of heat has nothing to do with the efficiency.

The distribution of heat will depend on the design features of the complete appliance.

Originally Posted by Westpoint

The distribution of heat will depend on the design features of the complete appliance.

Define effectiveness.

How much did they take you for?

Originally Posted by Westpoint

Are all light bulbs equally efficient?

A standard household 240V 20W lamp, regardless of the type of lamp it is, draws the same power. If you had a number of different 20W lamps and compared them, the traditional incandescent one would be dimmer than a halogen one, which in turn would be dimmer than a flourescent or led lamp.

Now the mind-fuck.

A halogen lamp burns more brightly than a standard incandescent lamp of equal wattage, so is therefore more efficient at producing light, but it also operates at a much higher temperature than a standard incandescent lamp whilst drawing the same current.

So (and this question is only for people who have worked in one of the foremost Research Labs for an Electrical Manufacturer) can you explain why the halogen lamp not only burns hotter than a traditional incandescent lamp, but also produces more light for a given current. I would be obliged if you could include in your answer reference to xenon lamps, which burn more brightly Watt-per-Watt than their close relatives the halogen lamps, but additionally at an even higher temperature.