Thread: Insulated platerboard

Originally Posted by Litotes

Don't you have to nail battens to the wall and then install a vapour barrier? Otherwise, the warm, moist air passes through the plasterboard, condenses on the cold wall and runs down to the floor where it festers and creates the ideal conditions for dry rot!

Litotes

Kingspan insulated plasterboards have built in vapour checks but you need to ensure that the boards butt tight and any gaps are fully filled (plasterboard depth only - not the whole board).

Take care at door and window rebates. If you don't use insulated board you will get cold spots and as a result condensation. If you have narrow window frames you will need to look at your options - cut away some of the wall or replace the windows to give you wider frames.

Insulating internally is the best way to insulate a solid brick wall, but another option is to insulate externally - look at the Sto website

incidently, re-boarding internally will give you an excellent opertunity to add more electrical/phone sockets

It all sounds very simple but you need to remember that you're dealing with a solid brick wall. Moisture on the outside will penetrate the wall. In the original form of construction, with coal fires and draughty windows and doors, the moisture that penetrated through the full thickness of the wall would evaporate as fast as it penetrated. As you "improve" your house with double-glazed windows and central heating, you reduce the ability of the moisture to evaporate, leading to dampness and mould growth.

Fitting insulated plasterboard compounds the dampness on the interior of the brick wall. It won't cure the mould, it'll just hide it - well, apart from the smell. If there's a lot of moisture penetrating, you could also get water damage on your new plasterboard (moisture-resisting plasterboard is NOT waterproof) or even your floor finishes. Door frames, floor joists and floorboards could also warp.

Consultants who specialise in insulation make a lot of money advising where insulation needs to be placed and whether ventilation needs to be provided. Before you go ahead with the installation of the plasterboard, you may need to consider repointing the brickwork, applying a brick sealer and providing ventilation, either passive (air bricks) or mechanical (Expelair-type thing) to get rid of the moisture that may form between the brick and plasterboard.

Are you doing this with ref to "renovation to a thermal element" 2006?

I've got a house of similar construction and come up against the above when looking to simply repair the external render.
(Was going to re-render and sort out the internal plastering(all lime based stuff))
Fecking arse!!!

How have you got on with the boarding?

Originally Posted by hicky

Are you doing this with ref to "renovation to a thermal element" 2006?

I've got a house of similar construction and come up against the above when looking to simply repair the external render.
(Was going to re-render and sort out the internal plastering(all lime based stuff))
Fecking arse!!!

How have you got on with the boarding?

You do what the rest of the DIY community does....ignore it...why the h*ll should I have to pay some bloke to come and measure the thermal properties of my walls and then tell me it isn't good enough (although better than it was) and force me to add more insulation reducing the size of the room by 1 inch all the way round.

S_R

p.s. and breath.

Originally Posted by hicky

Are you doing this with ref to "renovation to a thermal element" 2006?

I've got a house of similar construction and come up against the above when looking to simply repair the external render.
(Was going to re-render and sort out the internal plastering(all lime based stuff))
Fecking arse!!!

How have you got on with the boarding?

Hicky, no I am not. You can get someone to insulate the external part of the wall and render over the top but that seemed really expensive.

I havent been able to even start as several things have cropped up. I did buy a nice drill from Wickes that has a chisel action, about £70. But that is as far as I did get.

Originally Posted by 762baynet

Hicky, no I am not. You can get someone to insulate the external part of the wall and render over the top but that seemed really expensive.

I havent been able to even start as several things have cropped up. I did buy a nice drill from Wickes that has a chisel action, about £70. But that is as far as I did get.

Fair enough, thought I'd see how difficult the boarding is...I think I could remove our plaster with babies fingernails it is that bad.


SR, I'd asked on a different forum for a quick quote for limerendering a house, a building control bod perked up with the info and the fines that go with it for lack of application.

Am I going to ignore it(building cont application) and do the rendering myself.....feck yeah with a 15year payback for the cost of the work vs savings typical calculation(again building cont bod info) I'll just chuck more crap on my woodburner for free.

Originally Posted by hicky

SR, I'd asked on a different forum for a quick quote for limerendering a house, a building control bod perked up with the info and the fines that go with it for lack of application.

The thing that annoys me is that I have upgraded my insulation (cavity wall and additional plasterboard + plaster) but they want me to pay someone from the council to come along and measure it....and if I haven't done enough they will want you to rip it all out and re-do it to meet the specs.

My logic is that if it is better then it was previously surely it must be better to do something than nothing (which was my only option as I can't afford to re-do it)

Luckily I was only doing the insides so no-one can tell it has been re-done, but external work is probably harder to hide.

S_R