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Rifles Hot or Not - Show us yer kit!

ugly said:
I tried but was unable to incorrectly assemble my Ross bolt, I even fired it with the bolt release in the release position and it seemed to be ok, it was a M1910 Mk3.

Mine is an M10 as well...

The problem with the bolt is a little difficult to describe, but is essentally to do with the rotation of the head. As you will know, you have to rotate the bolt head a quarter turn against it's spring before you can fit it into the gun. The rotation of the head is stopped at the 90degree point by the extractor bar. It is possible to rotate the head further past the bar by forcing the stud in the extractor past the groove in the head. If you do this for another 90 degrees the head will drop back flush with the bolt body. The bolt is then 180 degrees out of alignment and can be fitted to the rifle, in this state it will chamber a round, but the bolt head will not rotate when it enters the breech. The striker will come forward and intiate the round, but the breech is still unlocked and will fail catastrophically.

You have to be quite a determined mong to get this wrong, however as they say... :roll:

I toyed around with posting a set of instructions on how to correctly strip and reassemble the bolt, but thought that this may be tempting fate...

Dunno - what do you think..?
 
HE117 said:
ugly said:
I tried but was unable to incorrectly assemble my Ross bolt, I even fired it with the bolt release in the release position and it seemed to be ok, it was a M1910 Mk3.

Mine is an M10 as well...

The problem with the bolt is a little difficult to describe, but is essentally to do with the rotation of the head. As you will know, you have to rotate the bolt head a quarter turn against it's spring before you can fit it into the gun. The rotation of the head is stopped at the 90degree point by the extractor bar. It is possible to rotate the head further past the bar by forcing the stud in the extractor past the groove in the head. If you do this for another 90 degrees the head will drop back flush with the bolt body. The bolt is then 180 degrees out of alignment and can be fitted to the rifle, in this state it will chamber a round, but the bolt head will not rotate when it enters the breech. The striker will come forward and intiate the round, but the breech is still unlocked and will fail catastrophically.

You have to be quite a determined mong to get this wrong, however as they say... :roll:

I toyed around with posting a set of instructions on how to correctly strip and reassemble the bolt, but thought that this may be tempting fate...

Dunno - what do you think..?

Sounds like a massive and potentially fatal safety issue - you could do a lot worse than putting up mong-proof instructions. If someone doesn't lose half their face, you've done a good job.
 
Biped said:
HE117 said:
ugly said:
I tried but was unable to incorrectly assemble my Ross bolt, I even fired it with the bolt release in the release position and it seemed to be ok, it was a M1910 Mk3.

Mine is an M10 as well...

The problem with the bolt is a little difficult to describe, but is essentally to do with the rotation of the head. As you will know, you have to rotate the bolt head a quarter turn against it's spring before you can fit it into the gun. The rotation of the head is stopped at the 90degree point by the extractor bar. It is possible to rotate the head further past the bar by forcing the stud in the extractor past the groove in the head. If you do this for another 90 degrees the head will drop back flush with the bolt body. The bolt is then 180 degrees out of alignment and can be fitted to the rifle, in this state it will chamber a round, but the bolt head will not rotate when it enters the breech. The striker will come forward and intiate the round, but the breech is still unlocked and will fail catastrophically.

You have to be quite a determined mong to get this wrong, however as they say... :roll:

I toyed around with posting a set of instructions on how to correctly strip and reassemble the bolt, but thought that this may be tempting fate...

Dunno - what do you think..?

Sounds like a massive and potentially fatal safety issue - you could do a lot worse than putting up mong-proof instructions. If someone doesn't lose half their face, you've done a good job.

OK I will see what I can do, BUT - the acid test is to check for the 1" extention of the bolt head as per my picture. If you have this, you are fine, if not, make sure you have an ample supply of headache pills before pulling the trigger...
 
HE117 said:
Biped said:
HE117 said:
ugly said:
I tried but was unable to incorrectly assemble my Ross bolt, I even fired it with the bolt release in the release position and it seemed to be ok, it was a M1910 Mk3.

Mine is an M10 as well...

The problem with the bolt is a little difficult to describe, but is essentally to do with the rotation of the head. As you will know, you have to rotate the bolt head a quarter turn against it's spring before you can fit it into the gun. The rotation of the head is stopped at the 90degree point by the extractor bar. It is possible to rotate the head further past the bar by forcing the stud in the extractor past the groove in the head. If you do this for another 90 degrees the head will drop back flush with the bolt body. The bolt is then 180 degrees out of alignment and can be fitted to the rifle, in this state it will chamber a round, but the bolt head will not rotate when it enters the breech. The striker will come forward and intiate the round, but the breech is still unlocked and will fail catastrophically.

You have to be quite a determined mong to get this wrong, however as they say... :roll:

I toyed around with posting a set of instructions on how to correctly strip and reassemble the bolt, but thought that this may be tempting fate...

Dunno - what do you think..?

Sounds like a massive and potentially fatal safety issue - you could do a lot worse than putting up mong-proof instructions. If someone doesn't lose half their face, you've done a good job.

OK I will see what I can do, BUT - the acid test is to check for the 1" extention of the bolt head as per my picture. If you have this, you are fine, if not, make sure you have an ample supply of headache pills before pulling the trigger...

I'd suggest you get it issued by one of the organisations so they can be responsible for it.
 
Fair enough... mine looks like this, only it's got a stainless steel barrel and a Time Precision tuner hanging off the end...

DSCN0760.jpg


The rest of the kit looks not dissimilar to this lot...

sinclair-iom.jpg
 
Gravelbelly said:
Fair enough... mine looks like this, only it's got a stainless steel barrel and a Time Precision tuner hanging off the end...

DSCN0760.jpg


The rest of the kit looks not dissimilar to this lot...

sinclair-iom.jpg

Bet that's mustard on rabbits! :)
 
Tartan_Terrier said:
Nice rifle Biped!

Here is my Mauser K98 from 1938. Rebarrelled to 7.62 NATO, but otherwise as original and matching (though obviously not the barrel).

its not an ex-israeli re-barreled K98 by any chance?
they have 7.62 in large stamp and embossed with enamel on the top of receiver. the zionists sold a lot of them off in the '80s, great condition and dirt cheap they were in too, for $300NZ i got myself one and as soon as i got it home it was 'sporterised' by removal of unneeded wood and metal. wish i had kept hold of it in original condition now.
 
DrStealth said:
Tartan_Terrier said:
Nice rifle Biped!

Here is my Mauser K98 from 1938. Rebarrelled to 7.62 NATO, but otherwise as original and matching (though obviously not the barrel).

its not an ex-israeli re-barreled K98 by any chance?
they have 7.62 in large stamp and embossed with enamel on the top of receiver. the zionists sold a lot of them off in the '80s, great condition and dirt cheap they were in too, for $300NZ i got myself one and as soon as i got it home it was 'sporterised' by removal of unneeded wood and metal. wish i had kept hold of it in original condition now.

No, it's actually ex-fire brigade! Apparently it was used in a rural district for despatching livestock caught in buring barns.

As the Wehrmacht in Denmark basically dissolved in May '45 there are numerous Mausers in circulation, but unfortunately many were sporterised.

A friend of mine was lucky enough to find an original K98 sniper where the stock had been sporterised, but the rifle was otherwise in original condition. After the purchase of a replacement stock he now has a K98 sniper for a fraction of the usual price. Jammy bastard!

I think mine was rebarrelled in the '80s, but as yet that is unconfirmed. The barrel is in great nick though and the rifle shoots much better than I can. I'll have to try it from a rest at some point to see how it performs.

Regards
T_T
 
HE117 said:
ugly said:
I tried but was unable to incorrectly assemble my Ross bolt, I even fired it with the bolt release in the release position and it seemed to be ok, it was a M1910 Mk3.

Mine is an M10 as well...

The problem with the bolt is a little difficult to describe, but is essentally to do with the rotation of the head. As you will know, you have to rotate the bolt head a quarter turn against it's spring before you can fit it into the gun. The rotation of the head is stopped at the 90degree point by the extractor bar. It is possible to rotate the head further past the bar by forcing the stud in the extractor past the groove in the head. If you do this for another 90 degrees the head will drop back flush with the bolt body. The bolt is then 180 degrees out of alignment and can be fitted to the rifle, in this state it will chamber a round, but the bolt head will not rotate when it enters the breech. The striker will come forward and intiate the round, but the breech is still unlocked and will fail catastrophically.

You have to be quite a determined mong to get this wrong, however as they say... :roll:

I toyed around with posting a set of instructions on how to correctly strip and reassemble the bolt, but thought that this may be tempting fate...

Dunno - what do you think..?

I think you woud be tempting fate! :twisted: That said mongs tend not to buy Ross rifles only sell them! :oops:
 
Ravers said:
Left hooker .375 by Purdey with a Swarovski scope.

Technically mine while it is on the RFD, that's me with the black and nasty sunglasses.

Keep your plastic rifles.... This piece of Ravers has me filling my pants...

Ravers, I've a lefty 375H&H by Charles Lancaster being stocked right now. Any chance of some more pictures of your Purdey?
 
This is my (off ticket) baby - a .62 calibre (rifled) Dutch cavalry carbine (M1854) which is a tiny 33 inches long.
DSC02553.jpg

DSC02554.jpg

DSC02557.jpg


and this is my faviourite on-ticket pop gun which fires .455 wogstoppers
webley_009a_123.jpg
 
Potential said:
This is my (off ticket) baby - a .62 calibre (rifled) Dutch cavalry carbine (M1854) which is a tiny 33 inches long.
DSC02553.jpg

DSC02554.jpg

DSC02557.jpg


and this is my faviourite on-ticket pop gun which fires .455 wogstoppers
webley_009a_123.jpg

That carbine is beautiful mate.
 
Potential said:
This is my (off ticket) baby - a .62 calibre (rifled) Dutch cavalry carbine (M1854) which is a tiny 33 inches long.
DSC02553.jpg

DSC02554.jpg

DSC02557.jpg


and this is my faviourite on-ticket pop gun which fires .455 wogstoppers
webley_009a_123.jpg

Must get a 455 Webley. There are ways and means....
 
I miss my wobley Mk6! Sold not so long ago for more stalking kit, it was severely shagged though!
 
good morning all.

I miss the big bangs, but this does it for me now.

Air Arms EV2 with a big scope .
 

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